Engine\Frame\Body grounds - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old May 21st, 10, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Question Engine\Frame\Body grounds

Am I correct in assuming that I should get a dead short on my DVM between the radiator support and the engine if the grounds are all good?
I have 3 straps on so far and then checked for continuity:

Ground strap from the radiator support to the frame.
Frame to the body.
Body to the engine.

I made a straight path with the grounds, then checked from the support to a valve cover bolt, and then the alternator. I had a nice dead short all the way through.
I'll add a couple more of course.

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old May 21st, 10, 05:17 PM
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Re: Engine\Frame\Body grounds

Reads good to me.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old May 21st, 10, 05:33 PM
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Re: Engine\Frame\Body grounds

All that is required is the main Grd cable from the battery to the engine and the pigtail wire off the main grd cable at batt terminal to the inner fender. Mine ran for a couple years without the pigtail terminated to the inner fender...

...Dennis

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old May 21st, 10, 07:57 PM
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Re: Engine\Frame\Body grounds

X2 to what DJD said.

The block needs the monster ground to carry starter current. The right inner fender ground supplies current to all the body electrical systems - lighting, radio, horn, wipers etc. The engine block ground, besides being able to carry huge currents, also has lots of ignition and alternator noise on it. The body ground will be less noisy. The battery acks like a huge capacitor keeping the block and body grounds from innermingling with each other.

Ground straps aren't meant to carry current. They are for noise suppression. With grounds separated that way (block and body) the two grounds can vary from one another. Imagine how the engine block ground has ignition noise on it. The bonding straps help equalize the ground voltage levels to keep ignition and alternator noise from fuzzing up your AM radio.

The ground strap from the block to the firewall serves another purpose. It gives your guages a more direct return path back to between the instrument panel and the block. Consider if your temp sender's ground return path was through the block, back to the battery, through the pigtail on the fender, through the body...you get the idea. The strap provides a more accurate reading with a shorter path.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 10, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Engine\Frame\Body grounds

Exactly.
Hence the reason they put ump-teen grounds from everything to everything else. Fortunately I don't do AM radio so I'm not too worried about static.

I was going to question the strap from the core support to the frame (without opening the book), but remembered the horn relay and VR need excellent grounding. So I drilled my holes and added one. It's an after market piece so of course there were no holes.
And in order to ground my cooling fan and controller, it's the closest place to grab GND.

I have this really neat tool I picked up while working on helicopters that is a small diameter cylindrical brush.... maybe 1/2" dia. with a guide in the center... that chucks up in your drill and is made to take any paint\dirt off from around a hole. It has a collar that keep the bristles tight together. It makes cleaning a mounting hole for a GND a snap. I wish I knew where Uncle Sam got it because it's an invaluable tool at a time like this.
Sure beats scraping paint with a sharp instrument or sand paper.

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