Park Brake Light NEVER Comes On - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 10, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Dallas, Texas
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Park Brake Light NEVER Comes On

The following is what Iíve checked already:

1) The tan wire that plugs in just below the master cylinder is hot with the ignition key turned on.
2) The tan wire is hot on the interior side where it plugs into braking brake switch. It doesnít matter whether the emergency brake is depressed or not.
3) I took the instrument panel out & tested the brakeís light bulb, itís okay.

What ELSE should I check? This is frustrating.

Oh yea, its a totally original RS 67 Camaro convertible. Thanks
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 10, 02:57 PM
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Location: Carson City, NV
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Re: Park Brake Light NEVER Comes On

The circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster. If it has any kinks in it or breaks being 40 + years old, you should replace it. Being the thin material that they are, fixing a break in the material is very hard.






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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 10, 03:09 PM
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John
 
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Re: Park Brake Light NEVER Comes On

If you ground the tan wire to the parking brake 'what happens', it and the diff block,
they complete the circuit, To the ground, If the light comes on, grounding the wire to
the p-brake it's in the switch.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 10, 09:22 PM
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Steps
 
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Re: Park Brake Light NEVER Comes On

Further to Johns post above..
the current comes out of the battery, thru the fuse box, up to the light blulb then down to the switch....then as John says the switch competes the circuit to ground.

Quote:
It doesn’t matter whether the emergency brake is depressed or not.
For it to get hot it needs current to go thru it....
does it get hot with the light off also?
Somewhere in the circuit you have a partial short or a connection that is bad and has a resistance across it in , increasing the current over and above what is being drawn by the bulb

If you inspect the bulb, very close, does it have any discoluring on the inside of the glass, a faint 'silvering'.
This is a classic sign of more current being forced thru the light bulb (due to a bad connection in the circuit) this current slowly vapourises the filiment desposting the super hot tungstein on the inner glass....
Brake and tail lights are more prone to this.

The bad connection is usually a bad ground or dirty connection inside the swtch in your case.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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