Junction bypass - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 10, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
Kevin
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 4
Question Junction bypass

Hi all,

Ive been having problems with my '68 starting since I bought it a few years back. It got to the point where I stopped driving it because I wasn't sure if it would start or leave me stranded.

I decided it was time to start working on it, so the first thing on my list was to get it starting better. The wires are old, and I do plan to rewire the whole car when I get to the point of doing paint and body. For now I just wanted it to start when I wanted it to.

I pulled the ignition switch from the dash and removed the Battery(bat) ignition(ign) and solenoid(sol) wires from the switch and ran direct wires to the corresponding locations. I also diconnected the wire from the battery to the junction block on the radiator support behind the battery. The car started right up. I turned on the headlights believing they would not work because I had no power to the junction block. To my surprise the lights worked. My guess is the alternator is powering them while the car is running, because they don't work when the car is not running.

I hooked the junction block back up to power and I am still using the 3 direct wires for starting the car.
I don't have anything fused, should I?
Is there any danger to having it wired this way to start?

Kevin
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 10, 06:00 PM
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Steiner
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lyman, SC
Posts: 8,348
Re: Junction bypass

Any time you run a direct line from the battery it is a good idea to fuse it at the battery. If a cable gets nicked it'll turn into a welder that you can't turn off.

I don't see a problem with doing it the way you are temporarily as long as you have a properly sized switch on each of your "bypass" lines so they can be disconnected when not in use and of course so you can turn off the starter once it's started. You need to keep the junction block hooked up. It sounds like it might've been backfeeding the lights through your new battery circuit once the car was on. Don't want to wind up overloading one of your cables.

'69 Camaro
Dart 400-AFR 195-224/224 HR-Powerjection III TB with F.A.S.T. Sportsman XFI
TKO 600-Moser 3.42-Detroit Truetrac
500hp/538lbft

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'69 Camaro Beater-SFT 327-M20-Moser 4.10-sold
'02 Z/28 vert-stock-sold and totaled
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 10, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
Kevin
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 4
Re: Junction bypass

I picked up a 30amp fuse and holder. Think that will be enough? it was the biggest they had in stock. plan on putting it right at the battery
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 10, 05:47 PM
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Steiner
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lyman, SC
Posts: 8,348
Re: Junction bypass

30A is fine on a 10AWG cable and your ignition/solenoid circuits are not going to draw more than that. You use the fuse not only to protect your devices but also to protect the cable. You wouldn't want to put a 30A fuse on say a piece of 16AWG wire because the wire could burn up before the fuse blew if it was not a straight short.

'69 Camaro
Dart 400-AFR 195-224/224 HR-Powerjection III TB with F.A.S.T. Sportsman XFI
TKO 600-Moser 3.42-Detroit Truetrac
500hp/538lbft

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'69 Camaro Beater-SFT 327-M20-Moser 4.10-sold
'02 Z/28 vert-stock-sold and totaled
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 10, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
Kevin
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 4
Re: Junction bypass

Awesome, thanks for the help
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