Re: gen light dim to bright red (searched)
With ihmmeter function selected of multimemter, check the vr chassis has less than 1 ohm resistnce from vr chassis to alt case and battery neg post. If not, add star washer between vr reg to rad support, as '69 vr;'s are hard mounted to rad support.
If vr is mounted on rubber isolators, add ground strap about one bolt from chassis to rad support for ground. Do the same to alt case to battery neg post, less than 1 ohm resistance. Ground wire on stud not required as case is grounded throught mounting bracketry, hopefully. No paint between them, case & brackets to block.
Might check belt tightness also. New belt needed? You're already there.
Start engine and measure from alt BAT stud to battery pos post, should be less than 0.3 volts difference. If more, then check pos cable pigtail to junction block and red wires to horn relay buss bar - might wire brush everything and reconnect.
Once up and running at high idle for about 15 minutes, vr should be hot. If temp at vr is 120įF, charge voltage at battery posts should be no less than 13.8 volts, no accessories on, just ignition on. If not, replace mech regulator with electronic regulator, Wells/Duralast P/N VR715 for about $20. Plug and play, but ground circuit needed as before.
If you want to adjust mech VR, remove cover straight off, don't touch the sides, and lengthen the spring on the side of relay to increase voltage, not much, alittle adjustment goes a long way. Replace cover, and let it heat up again and measure at battery posts, 1500 rpm, 13.5-14 volts. As you add loads, ie, lights, blower, wipers, voltage will far off, normal event. rev up engine and voltage climbs. Normal action.
On these older designs, the current demanded was handled by the alt until it is maxed out, then battery helped. Run on the highway, battery got recharged some. Battery takes longer to recharge than it does to discharge.
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