Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 11, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

I haven't drilled the firewall hole for the diode harness to pass through yet, but I'm wanting to test them out.

Just want to verify something. The diode harness has a wire that goes to the ignition switch, and one that goes to the headlight switch. If I jump the ignition wire to the battery, and then touch the headlight wire to the battery they should open right? Then by removing the headlight wire, they should close?

Jason
2009 CTS-V - 1968 Camaro 327/M20 Sequoia Green
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 11, 11:56 AM
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

Yes, that should work. And they should not close unless you have the ignition switch wire energized. You will need to have all grounds connected appropriately also.

'67 rs - ordered new by my Grandfather
327 L30, K-K, Deluxe int, tach & gauges, 12 bolt posi, 4 speed.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 11, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

Well that didn't work....though I did get some clicking from the relays. Guess I need to start troubleshooting them....

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 11, 04:51 PM
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

check this out for a troubleshooting guide, about 16 down is what your looking for. http://www.gvtc.com/~rlaa/
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 11, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

Quote:
Originally Posted by FrostWhiteZ View Post
check this out for a troubleshooting guide, about 16 down is what your looking for. http://www.gvtc.com/~rlaa/
Thanks, already had that printed out. Just grabbed my test light and had at it. Comments below.

Problem: Lights don't open and close.
What I did:

1. Tested ground wire from R3 to radiator support - it was fine. I even ran a new ground and still didn't work.

2. Check relay R1 - unplugged 2 wire connector, and it clicked as expected.

3. Check relay R3 - unplugged 2 wire connector, and it didn't click as expected.

4. Used my test light on horn relay junction - it lit up
5. Used my test light on breakers red wire - it lit up
6. Used my test light on breakers orange wire - it lit up
7. Used my test light on horn relay orange wire- it lit up

So everything tests as it's supposed to. Sound like the motors are bad? Is there an easy way to test them?

Jason
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 11, 03:32 PM
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

The writen test instructions assume the system is altogether and has been functioning so in your case, run 12V or -12V directly to the motor and you should get some action. Test each relay individually with 12V, ground and a continuity meter on the other 3 pole (switched) side. Test each limit switch with a continuity meter also. Good luck!

'67 rs - ordered new by my Grandfather
327 L30, K-K, Deluxe int, tach & gauges, 12 bolt posi, 4 speed.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 11, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

alright I guess I'll pull one of the headlight assemblies tomorrow and try and check the motor. The wiring is all brand new, as is the relay board/relays. The only thing not new is the motors and limit switches.

Looks like just 4 bolts right? 2 from the back and 2 in the headlight bucket area?

Any idea what wires to jump on the motor to make it open or is it just 2 and you reverse the polarity to open/close?

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 11th, 11, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

I think I'm finally getting somewhere...

Pulled both headlight assemblies and tested the motors. D/S opened and closed fine.
P/S required some assistance - so it looks like it needs to be replaced.

I had an extra wire I couldnt figure out where it went here:

https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=196151


Looks like it's supposed to go to the bottom of the limit switch inside the headlight capsule. I found a corresponding wire in the P/S area.

Issue is...I can't seem to figure out how to get it to the limit switch. The wire doesn't seem long enough. Any ideas....maybe my harness isn't run properly or something?

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 11, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

Found this:

https://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...+switch+wiring
Quote:
The following is fron my 67 RS help page:

There are four limit switches on the 67 RS. The limit switch terminals should be wired as follows:

All limit switch ground terminals should face down.

Limit switch located on driver's side of the radiator support:
Plug with single purple wire attaches to the top terminal of the switch.
Plug with two blue wires attaches to bottom terminal of the switch.

Limit switch located on driver's side headlight capsule:
Plug with single white wire attaches to the top terminal of the switch.
Plug with two brown wires attaches to bottom terminal of the switch.

Limit switch located on the passenger's side of the radiator support:
Plug with single bright green wire attaches to the top terminal of the switch.
Plug with single blue wire attaches to bottom terminal of the switch.

Limit switch located on passenger's side headlight capsule:
Plug with single green wire attaches to the top terminal of the switch.
Plug with single brown wires attaches to bottom terminal of the switch
Does anyone have any pictures of how the limit switch wiring harness lays? I don't seem to have enough wire for the bottom limit switches and I'm sure it's just not sitting properly.

Does that harness go on the inside of the radiator support facing the engine, or on the other side?

Jason
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 11, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing RS headlights by jumping diode harness

SUCCESS! Kind of...I was able to get the D/S headlight to open! I jumped the diode harness wires to 12v. I heard the relays click like they're supposed to. I then was fumbling around and realized the limit switches look like crap and are probably bad. I unplugged the wires to the D/S headlight capsule limit switch and jumped them...it opened right up! Now...I have no idea how to close it until I drill the hole for the diode harness in the firewall, but at least I know it should work once I get that done.

Still need to replace the P/S motor, and I'm probably just going to order all new limit switches and get it done at the same time.

Jason
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