Re: Want to install new fuse panel??????
I don't know if AAW will sell just a modern fuse box separately, but I know who can answer.
Call AAW on the toll-free line, use the dial by name function, and input "Bock". That will get you to Donny Bock, who has been a good friend to me and a source of tech support for a lot of guys here. You can tell him that Team Camaro and/or I sent you his way.
My guess regarding using the modern block with the OE harnesses is that you would spend a lot of time trying to get the circuits arranged correctly; I never sat and looked at the GM diagrams vs the AAW Update circuits, but I know that the main power feed circuit is totally different.
The OE GM harness feeds the main 12V supply from the battery to the junction block behind the battery, and from there across under the rad support lip to the horn relay/electrical buss on the driver side near the OE voltage regulator, and then from the buss bar back to the fuse block.
The Update harness takes its main 12V supply from the starter terminal, and the horn relay is located inside the car under the dash (I mounted mine in the clip for the OE flasher unit on the center dash brace). Both flasher units mount on the Update fuse box, so there is that OE flasher circuit run to the center of the dash that you'd have to re-route back to the new fuse box.
As always, I am sure there is a way to make a new fuse block mate to an OE harness, but... if you really want the blade fuses, I am not sure why you would not want to use the whole 69 Update Kit. I don't know how you value your time, nor do I know you skill at setting up and re-routing circuits, but I can tell you that a complete update kit costs $450 to $500 depending whom you get it from. You would then have all new wiring, and running and completing the Update wires cannot be harder than trying to fit a modern fuse block to an OE harness.
Unless you like working upside down and/or are built like an elf, you'd have to remove the complete dash harness from the car, and then sit and figure things out on the workbench or floor. Then, hoping you got things hooked up right on the first try, you reinstall all that old wiring and new fuse block, and then you get to start re-routing the underhood harnesses. As I noted, the main power feed would probably move from the front light harness to the engine harness. I think for the most part the other wires for each harness stay in the same side of the connectors, but some would likely need to be re-pinned (removed and then installed in a different location on the harness plugs).
Seems like a really long process, with a lot of potential to hook things up wrong, and wind up with either fried circuits/gauges/senders etc., or at worst an electrical fire.
Anyway, talk to Donny, and he can tell you if it is even a possibility to do what you want to do. I don't think Painless has anyone in tech support that has 1/1000 of the knowledge, particularly for GM wiring, that Donny does.
And if you decide to go with a complete Update harness but purchase from one of AAW's resellers to get a better than "list" price, AAW tech support doesn't care. They have great customer support.
69 'vert project big block/TKO 600 RR
68 'vert driver RS clone -- gone!