wiring issue - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 12, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
Jennifer
 
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wiring issue

Hi, I have an X-11 code 69 4sp hard top and this car after driving it for awhile will not start until I have let it sit for about an hour. It loses power to the starter almost like a circuit is kicking out and then resetting after sitting but it is not conv. so there is no circuit breaker. I'm wondering if the dash cluster mat has a problem in it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,thanks!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 12, 10:34 AM
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Re: wiring issue

Jennifer - it sounds like you are saying you have an intermittent starting problem. I can't tell though if when the engine gets warm you get nothing when you turn the key or the starter turns the engine over but it doesn't start. If you get nothing you are describing heat soak in the starter. Turning over and not starting is more complex and could be several possible problems.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 12, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: wiring issue

Wow Thank you! It is an intermitant thing. I'll drive it 10 miles maybe and stop at a gas station say,turn it off go inside come out and try to start it and when I turn the key to the start position it does nothing.Then I let it sit for about an hour and suddenly it will start. It's bizarre. I don't think it is starter related as the starter is new. I have decided to carry a remote starter switch with me so that when it does it again I can jump the solenoid and make sure it's not starter related. I drive the car very little and it has done this for years and this car has been almost ground up rebuilt. Crate eng.,suspension,eng. side wiring harness, etc..
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 12, 04:24 PM
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Re: wiring issue

It could be heat problems like Dennis said. If so a starter heat shield usually solves the problem. It could also be as simple as a slightly loose connection on one of the three wires on the starter or solenoid. The heat expands the connection just enough to lose contact.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 12, 04:36 PM
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Re: wiring issue

Sounds like starter heat soak, it could be a loose battery connection on the starter though too. If the remote start switch works when the key doesn't that would confirm heat soak. Heat creates resistance in electrical windings and resistance reduces voltage so when the heat from the engine finds it's way to the starter it doesn't work like it does when it is cooled off. The heat soak gets progressively worse so don't expect it to go away.

Replacing the starter with a permanent magnet starter is one of the simplest fixes, adding a remote solenoid is another. It's been my experience heat shields and blankets provide a very limited solution.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 12, 05:20 PM
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Re: wiring issue

When you say it does nothing, no clicking sounds or ??? I would suspect possibly a switch issue. You can check at the starter with a meter if you are getting 12V from your ignition wire. You said you will carry a remote starter switch. Does that mean it will start using that when you experience the no start issue? If so that seems to point to the switch.

I've not experienced heat soaked starters so can't say if they make a noise at all or just act dead.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 12, 04:04 AM
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Re: wiring issue

Lots of good suggestions given.
Since the car is not driven much, it could be the battery is never fully charged from Day One.
You could externally charge the battery at least every two to three weeks for an afternoon.

As said, ambient heat is electricity's worst enemy. More heat, more current needed to overcome the resistance in the circuit when power is requested.
Other ideas are the battery itself. Is it large enough capacity for the car?
A too small battery may not supply enough current when requested.
A too large of battery may not ever get fully charged and not supply enough current when requested.
The symptom for this is a click is heard, but engine does not crank/turn over.

Battery cables and their clamps, min size of cable is 1/0 gauge.
Posts and clamps need a cleaning, a battery post wire brush does the job very well.
A clamped connection corrodes internally also, needs cleaning once in a while.
As suggested earlier, the same cleaning goes for the ground connection.
An unpainted connection on the block is best, not on an accessory bracket because of the number of connections from the starter body to the battery negative post, the lesser number, the better.

Generally, with an up-to-par elecrical system, heat soak is not a problem.
Another suggestion mentioned is the solenoid power from ignition switch.
Ign switch and clutch pedal safety switch, either one or both, may have some resistance build up on the contacts limiting the amount of power to the starter solenoid preventing the solenoid from pulling 'in' to engage the starter motor.
This symptom shows up as 'no click' heard when start position is selected.

You mentioned using a remote switch to start. Good idea. Using the r/switch signifies new starter motor works. You might check solenoid circuit as suggested earlier.
A last resort is install in the dash, or under the dash, a marine grade push button start switch, #8 gauge wire, and wire up the switch just as you would the remote starter switch. You always know this will work. Grommet the hole in the firewall to prevent chaffing.

Let us know what you find, or don't find, and keep asking.

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