Please help me wire in my stereo system - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 12, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Question Please help me wire in my stereo system

I really don't know much about this stuff. Here is the hardware I am working with:

Radio: RetroSound Model One with Front RCA line out and Rear RCA line out
Front Speakers: 140W Dual Voice Coil Speakers - Physically one dash speaker with inputs for BOTH stereo channels.
Rear Speakers: Two RF P1694 6x9 full range with 150W Peak/75W RMS
Subs: Two 11" RF P1
Speaker Amp: RF Punch P400-4
Sub Amp: RF Punch P300-1

(RF-RockfordFosgate)

Here is my hack on the initial wiring setup. I know there are some stereo gurus on here that know a whole lot more than I'll never know about this stuff. I am looking for all kinds of feedback. Will my setup work or is there a better way of doing this. X-over and Gain - not going there just yet but will certainly need coaching on that too. Thank you so much in advance!


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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 12, 02:41 PM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

What you have drawn will certainly work.

What will happen is when the radio is faded full front then the dash speaker and rear speakers will have sound and the subwoofer will not have sound. If you fade to the middle with the radio then all speakers will have sound. If you fade full rear then only the sub will have sound.

Ideally I like control of the sub with a dedicated volume control built into the radio but you cannot do that with yours but that's fine. With your wiring drawing there is no way to have just the front OR rear speakers on along with the subwoofer.

If for some reason you want to just have sound from the dash speaker and not the rear deck speakers then the wiring you have will not allow this to happen but ask yourself would you ever do that. If not, then wire it like you have shown. If you think you may want to shut off the rear deck speakers and have just the dash speaker and the sub on then you could wire the rear output of the radio to the rear input of the 4 channel amp and then on the front output of the radio, put in Y cables to where the signal is split to go to the front inputs on the 4 channel amp and then the other part of the Y cable to the input of the sub amplifier.


When you do your power wiring to the battery, fuse each amp seperately as it needs to be done this way. You can run a properly sized single wire up to the underhood battery with a single fuse up there but in back when it gets split, run a single properly sized fuse on each amp. Also, if the battery is under the hood, upgrade the battery negative terminal wire to the body of the car.

Jim

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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 12, 07:20 PM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

I'd do like suggested above and split the cables. Since you only have front and rear RCA's, run them to the four channel amp so you can fade the front and rear. Use a y-connector on either front or rear RCA cables to feed the sub amp. Then you've got your remote to adjust the sub independently (plugs into RJ connection).

Set the four channel amp to "4 Channel".
2 channel is to bridge the outputs to run one speaker off two outputs at higher power.

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 12, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Thank you Jim and Steiner! I really like the idea of using the y-cable. I assume that will require 2 y-cables, one to split the rear "red" RCA out and one to split the rear "white" RCA out, correct? Does it matter if I use the Y-cable on front or rear RCA outs? Above I mentioned rear but is there an advantage one over the other? I like the idea of being able to control/adjust the subs via a remote. The manual says the remote is optional so I assume I can buy one. I'll redraw my wiring diagram for final approval.

Also for power here are my plans. I pre-wired everything when I had the inside of the car apart last winter. I have a nice thick/red 4 gauge wire running from junction box (front behind the battery) to the trunk. This wire is fused about 8-12 inches from the junction box. Per Jim, I’ll plan to split that off to each amp and then fuse each branch so each amp will have its own in line fuse. I should be good to go with my battery’s negative terminal as I redid my battery terminals not too long ago and have a very good ground to the motor and frame. See pic below. I will also plan to ground each amp via a 4 gauge wire directly to some portion of the trunk. Can I ground both amps to the same spot in the trunk? I also pre-wired my “blue” wire to turn on/off the amps and plan on splitting it off to each amp.

Pic of my ground terminal (1/0 welding cable) coming of the battery to the block and then to the frame.


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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 12, 02:57 PM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Quote:
Originally Posted by zlek131 View Post
Matt, with this diagram you would not have any sound to the rear speakers because there is no RCA connected to the rear jack on the bottom amp.

Your options are to run it the way you have drawn and split the signal from the front channel on the deck with a pair of Y jacks connecting to both the front and rear channels of the bottom amp. Then run the other set of RCA's like you have them drawn. This will allow you to fade between "all 4 speakers" and "sub", but not from front to rear.

Another other option would be to run one set of RCA's to the front channel on the bottom amp, and the other set of RCA's to the rear channel on the bottom amp, and then split one of those channels with the Y jacks to connect to the subs. This would allow you to fade from front to rear speakers, but when you fade away from the channel with the sub, you will lose some of the subwoofer.

The other (most complicated) option would be to use 6 pairs of Y jacks. You would run one set of RCA's to the front channel on the bottom amp and split them with a pair of Y jacks. Run the other set of RCA's to the rear channel on the bottom amp with a pair of Y jacks. You would then have 4 channels heading to the subwoofer amp. Then you would use one more pair of Y jacks to combine the four channels back down to two to connect to the left and right channels on the subwoofer amp. This would allow you to fade from the front to rear speakers without losing the subwoofer in the process.

If you choose the last option, you would have to use four 1F2M (one female two male) Y's and two 1M2F Y's.


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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 12, 03:03 PM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Quote:
Originally Posted by zlek131 View Post
Thank you Jim and Steiner! I really like the idea of using the y-cable. I assume that will require 2 y-cables, one to split the rear "red" RCA out and one to split the rear "white" RCA out, correct? Does it matter if I use the Y-cable on front or rear RCA outs? Above I mentioned rear but is there an advantage one over the other? I like the idea of being able to control/adjust the subs via a remote. The manual says the remote is optional so I assume I can buy one. I'll redraw my wiring diagram for final approval.

Also for power here are my plans. I pre-wired everything when I had the inside of the car apart last winter. I have a nice thick/red 4 gauge wire running from junction box (front behind the battery) to the trunk. This wire is fused about 8-12 inches from the junction box. Per Jim, I’ll plan to split that off to each amp and then fuse each branch so each amp will have its own in line fuse. I should be good to go with my battery’s negative terminal as I redid my battery terminals not too long ago and have a very good ground to the motor and frame. See pic below. I will also plan to ground each amp via a 4 gauge wire directly to some portion of the trunk. Can I ground both amps to the same spot in the trunk? I also pre-wired my “blue” wire to turn on/off the amps and plan on splitting it off to each amp.
Yes you can ground both amps to the same spot. Also you may just want to pick up a fused distribution block for the amps. You can get one that accepts 4 awg in, and then uses 8 awg to go to each amp. It would be cleaner, and you can install whatever size fuse you want. Just google 4 gauge fused distribution block.

Yes you can just split the blue remote turn on wire at the amps.


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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 12, 05:58 PM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Rally View Post
Matt, with this diagram you would not have any sound to the rear speakers because there is no RCA connected to the rear jack on the bottom amp.
I could be wrong but I believe that when the 4 or 2 channel switch that has been labeled as 2 channel by zlek131 in his drawing it would allow just 2 RCA's to be used on either the front or rear input and drive all 4 channels of the amp. Basically I think that switch just jumpers the right rear input to the right front and then the left rear input to the left front input. It's been a while since I worked with Rockford but I just did a Pioneer amp today and that one had a 2/4 channel input switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zlek131 View Post
Thank you Jim and Steiner! I really like the idea of using the y-cable. I assume that will require 2 y-cables, one to split the rear "red" RCA out and one to split the rear "white" RCA out, correct? Does it matter if I use the Y-cable on front or rear RCA outs? Above I mentioned rear but is there an advantage one over the other? I like the idea of being able to control/adjust the subs via a remote. The manual says the remote is optional so I assume I can buy one. I'll redraw my wiring diagram for final approval.

Also for power here are my plans. I pre-wired everything when I had the inside of the car apart last winter. I have a nice thick/red 4 gauge wire running from junction box (front behind the battery) to the trunk. This wire is fused about 8-12 inches from the junction box. Per Jim, I’ll plan to split that off to each amp and then fuse each branch so each amp will have its own in line fuse. I should be good to go with my battery’s negative terminal as I redid my battery terminals not too long ago and have a very good ground to the motor and frame. See pic below. I will also plan to ground each amp via a 4 gauge wire directly to some portion of the trunk. Can I ground both amps to the same spot in the trunk? I also pre-wired my “blue” wire to turn on/off the amps and plan on splitting it off to each amp.

Pic of my ground terminal (1/0 welding cable) coming of the battery to the block and then to the frame.
No problem for the help.

Yes, you would need two RCA "Y" cables but sometimes the cable is not long enough to reach each amp so you may take some measurements to where when you go shopping you will get the right ones.

As far as the cabling you have run, unless the frame is tied into welded in frame connectors and the welded to the body of the car, most times grounding the frame doesn't do anything BUT it doesn't hurt. You do need a ground from either the engine block or the battery negative terminal to the body of the car unless how you have it with the frame grounded AND you have welded in frame connectors to the front frame and then welded to the floor pan. Most subframes are floating on rubber bushings under the car and also at the radiator support.

Hopefully the wires you have run are a copper wire. I would think 4 gauge would be sufficient for both of those amps BUT if it's a 4 gauge copper clad aluminum wire (CCA) or aluminum wire, then it probably won't be large enough. A lot of shops sell a cheaper 4 gauge wire but there is a reason for this. 4 gauge copper can handle more power than 4 gauge CCA wire. 4 gauge CCA wire is less expensive than 4 gauge copper wire because it is over 90% aluminum. To put in place CCA wire instead of copper wire requires from what I've read, 1 to 2 larger wire sizes so if something needs 4 gauge copper wire and you then substituted CCA wire then the wire would need to be a 2 gauge or larger.

If you do get the Rockford Bass level controller, make sure it is made for the amps you have. I think they did a design change a while back and the new controllers do not work with the older amps and visa/versa.

You can ground the amps to one point but clean the area down to bare metal and try to make a nut and bolt connection and not self tapping screws or regular sheet metal screws. Depending how thorough you want to be add a star washer or two and then after the connection is tight, cover it all over with a black silicone caulk. If needed later the caulk can be removed but it also helps seal the connection.


As 67Rally said they do make fuse distribution blocks BUT do not install whatever fuse you want but use the size that Rockford says to use for those amplifiers. Even though a fuse holder may hold a 200A fuse, you do not put that size in unless it is needed.

Jim

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 12, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Rally View Post
Matt, with this diagram you would not have any sound to the rear speakers because there is no RCA connected to the rear jack on the bottom amp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOA-Nova View Post
I could be wrong but I believe that when the 4 or 2 channel switch that has been labeled as 2 channel by zlek131 in his drawing it would allow just 2 RCA's to be used on either the front or rear input and drive all 4 channels of the amp. Basically I think that switch just jumpers the right rear input to the right front and then the left rear input to the left front input. It's been a while since I worked with Rockford but I just did a Pioneer amp today and that one had a 2/4 channel input switch.
Brent, I also thought it would not work without having the rear jacks connected but as I was reading the amp's manual I saw this (see below) and that's why I went down that road. According to that, the 3rd option shows 4 speakers in 2 channel mode so I think Jim's idea is still valid. Does that change my options? Once again, thank you for all the feedback.


Matt

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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 12, 12:11 AM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Matt, the whole issue with running four channels off one set of inputs is that you can't fade. If you want to go that route, you'd still want to use y connectors to send the signal to both the front and rear inputs of the single four channel amp so that you can adjust the gains on each set of inputs independently. That way you can dial in your front and rear so that it sounds best instead of possibly one overpowering the other and having bad imaging.

The gain dials will basically boost or trim the input signal and result in more or less volume at the speaker. If you only have one set of inputs connected, only one gain will have any effect so all four speakers will adjust at the same rate.

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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 12, 03:10 AM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

I missed the 2ch switch, that could change everything. As said above, if you run it with the 2ch switch, then you can run it like your original diagram, you just lose the ability to fade from front to rear, you would only be able to fade from front&rear to sub, and as Steiner said, you can't adjust the gain between front and rear.

If you want to be able to fade front to rear, and have the sub stay constant, then the 6 Y connector setup with the amp set to 4ch would still work.

When I suggested using a fused distribution block and stated that you can use whatever size fuse you wanted, what I meant was you can pick the fuse size appropriate to each of the amps. I'm assuming you knew that. And if I recall, you have welded subframe connectors and solid body mounts, so grounding at the rear will tie into the front.


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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 12, 04:55 AM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Something like the Stinger #SPD8622 would work perfect as a distribution block, one 4awg in, 2 8awg out with two MAXI fuses:

amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Gauge-Fused-Distribution-Block/dp/B001IQ0M7G



or SPD5120 with two AGU fuses:

amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Gang-Fused-Distribution-Block/dp/B001IW04PA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_8



I just picked Stinger, but any major company will do. Monster, StreetWires, Rockford Fosgate, etc all make different configurations


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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 12, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

This is really good info. To my surprise I think all this is gelling nicely in my head and I'm actually starting to understand this. Of course that would be because I am getting superb info/education from all you guys here. I agree that 4 channel and Y's is the way to go. I'll go ahead and diagram the 4 channel and 6 Y's setup.

Matt

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 12, 08:52 AM
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Matt, FWIW I just looked up the specs on your two amps and it looks like they can both take a 4 awg power and ground wire, so you may want to look for a distribution block that accepts 4 awg in and 4 awg out. The sub amp needs a 60-amp fuse, and the 4 channel speaker amp needs an 80-amp fuse.

We can talk crossover settings once you get everything else set up.


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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 12, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Brent et al, thanks for all the good info. I got a 4 awg dist block a while back so I'll plan on using it. I'll plan on going with the 60/80 AMP fuses for the sub/4ch amps respectively. She's gonna be rocking for sure...

Matt

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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 12, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Please help me wire in my stereo system

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Rally View Post
...The other (most complicated) option would be to use 6 pairs of Y jacks. You would run one set of RCA's to the front channel on the bottom amp and split them with a pair of Y jacks. Run the other set of RCA's to the rear channel on the bottom amp with a pair of Y jacks. You would then have 4 channels heading to the subwoofer amp. Then you would use one more pair of Y jacks to combine the four channels back down to two to connect to the left and right channels on the subwoofer amp. This would allow you to fade from the front to rear speakers without losing the subwoofer in the process.

If you choose the last option, you would have to use four 1F2M (one female two male) Y's and two 1M2F Y's.
Brent, is this what you're talking about?


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