Electrical short - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 12, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical short

So, I have a problem. I know that this is a shot in the dark but I'm hoping somebody out there can help. I recently did the console gauge conversion and I have two problems. First, every time I plug in the console harness to the underdash harness, I blow the fuse for the instrument lights. If I leave things disconnected, the dash lights work fine but then blow immediately. I have all four bulbs plugged into the console in the right places and it looks right to me. Anybody with a similar issue or any ideas would be very helpful to me.

The second problem is that after adding the tach to the dash and replacing the circuit board, those dash lights work but my turn signal bulbs (I can hear it click and the exterior lights work) don't work and the clock in the center of the tach doesn't work. Any ideas what to check?

Again, I know this is tough to diagnose via the web but if you guys are willing to help me, I'm confident we can figure it out. Let me know what questions you have and I will tell you what I have tried/haven't tried. Thanks so much!

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 12, 04:21 PM
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Re: Electrical short

I would compare the console plug wire colors to the mating harness ensuring the colors match on both sides of the connectors.
With console unplugged, remove half of the cluster bulbs and check fuse.
If the fuse blows, remove half the remaining bulbs and try again.
Do the same with the other half, remove the tested bulbs and test.
Do you have the correct circuit board? 6295093 is the tach & clock board.
Lamps is a 4 amp fuse.
Clock gets power from BATTERY.
The troubleshooting technique is eliminate the extras, ie, console lights and work with cluster lights.
Also, Heater dash lights are in parallel also, they work at the same time and ashtray light, if equipped, and radio dial.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 12, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Electrical short

Thanks for the feedback. The harness matches color for color. I have the correct circuit board as well. Do you know if any of the wires change except for the wire for the tach?? The instructions had one other wire change but the circuit board has it as an empty space so I left it alone.

Check on the 4 amp fuse.

Appreciate the color on the elimination method, two bulbs at a time. I will try that.

Any other ideas for the dash? Surprised that the clock doesn't even have power...

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 12, 08:26 PM
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Re: Electrical short

The clock power is separate from the circuit board. There is a "nipple" on the back of the tach/clock that gets the 12V.

As far as replacing wires, the GEN and TEMP leads need to be removed. The OIL is replaced with the FUEL (low fuel warning) Yellow wire. The Tan fuel level wire is removed, as well. A Brown wire is added for the Tach input. It goes from 9 to 7 wires.

For the turn indicator bulbs, sometimes the little twist in sockets don't make good contact with the circuit board. If you gently and slightly bend out the copper tabs on each side of the socket, it helps them make better contact with the circuit board. I had to do that on pretty much all of mine!

Also, make sure there is a ground wire between the two pairs of console gauge pods, the pod housing, and ground to the transmission tunnel. Some aftermarket gauges don't have the ground between the two pods.


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 12, 08:37 PM
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Re: Electrical short

Oh, and make sure the instrument cluster is grounded well. There is the metal at the top center where the high beam indicator is located. A mounting screw goes through it into the dash. Also, there was a wire between the back of the cluster and dash brace. It was added into production at some point. So, not all cars had it and it is missing in other cars that did have it...

Grey = Instrument Lights
Brown = Tach lead
Dark Blue = Right Turn
Tan = E-brake warning (orginally had 2 Tan wires. 2nd for Fuel Level)
Light Blue = Left Turn
Yellow = Low Fuel Warning
Pink = Warning Light Power
Grounds are through the cluster body.



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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 12, 08:25 AM
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Re: Electrical short

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
With console unplugged, remove half of the cluster bulbs and check fuse.
If the fuse blows, remove half the remaining bulbs and try again.
I must be missing something here... In my head the short has to be before the bulb(s) if it's blowing fuses. I don't understand what removing bulbs will do to help locate the problem.

When I first installed the console and harness in my 69 I had a wire connector hanging out of the plastic connector between the dash harness nad console harness that shorted on the floor bracket that holds them. I had to check the gray wires to the shifter lights (auto).

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 12, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Electrical short

Thanks guys.

CB, I will definitely double-check my wiring with everything you mentioned above. I am a little curious why some of the wires would need to be removed though. If I look at the circuit board, two of the wires don't go anywhere. Given that, why would I need to remove them? Just curious.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 12, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Electrical short

Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow69RS View Post
I must be missing something here... In my head the short has to be before the bulb(s) if it's blowing fuses. I don't understand what removing bulbs will do to help locate the problem.

When I first installed the console and harness in my 69 I had a wire connector hanging out of the plastic connector between the dash harness nad console harness that shorted on the floor bracket that holds them. I had to check the gray wires to the shifter lights (auto).

Jeff
Jeff - I thought the same thing but I'm at a loss. The fuse does not blow until I connect the harness console to the dash harness. There is only about a foot or so of grey wire from the connector to each of the four bulbs and the wires appear to be intact.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 12, 09:13 AM
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Re: Electrical short

Quote:
Originally Posted by eyecell007 View Post
If I leave things disconnected, the dash lights work fine but then blow immediately. I have all four bulbs plugged into the console in the right places and it looks right to me.
Andy wrote leaving it(console) disconnected, the INST LAMPS fuse still blows.
Only bulbs remaining are cluster, heater, and radio dial.
This the reason to fix the cluster lights first, then move to the console.

But, since now the console lights blows the fuse, you should measure resistance between ground, black wire? and the gray wire, LAMPS power.
There should be some resistance and if less than an ohm, remove a bulb one at a time.
The bulb causing the low resistance is the problem bulb/socket.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 12, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Electrical short

Thanks guys - I will report back soon

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 12, 07:20 AM
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Re: Electrical short

OK I got it now Everett. I never think about the bulb itself being shorted because I've never had one but realize it could happen. I installed a new light fixture in my kitchen that blew breakers because of a shorted socket, something else I've only seen once.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 12, 10:28 AM
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Re: Electrical short

Quote:
Originally Posted by eyecell007 View Post
Thanks guys.

CB, I will definitely double-check my wiring with everything you mentioned above. I am a little curious why some of the wires would need to be removed though. If I look at the circuit board, two of the wires don't go anywhere. Given that, why would I need to remove them? Just curious.
You don't HAVE to. But it is cleaner.


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