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Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 12, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Success!!

I got it running!!

After following Steptoe's suggestions, I pulled the #1 spark plug to determine tdc and found out that the balancer timing marks were WAY out of place. I also ran a new 12 awg lead from the fuse panel to the coil to replace the factory resistor wire. Turned the key and she fired right up!!

Thanks again Steps for the help.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 12, 11:59 AM
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Re: Success!!

Nice, but using full 12 volts on a factory coil will burn it out. it gets 12 volts via the starter while cranking, but then get reduced voltage when running.

Kevin


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 12, 12:15 PM
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Re: Success!!

It is my understanding that the resistance wire is to lower the current through the points to prevent wear/pitting.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 12, 01:13 PM
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Re: Success!!

Might be the points, but I know something burns out with a full 12v

Kevin


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 12, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Re: Success!!

I'm running an MSD pro billit dist with the blaster coil, forgot to mention that. I was referring to this thread where things weren't lining up like they should and Steps bailed me out. https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=207050.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 12, 02:32 PM
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Re: Success!!

Cool on the timing//always go back to absolute basics when trouble shooting

OK ok now the 12v on balast coils and visa versa
No u do not burn them out...well maybe if one is stupid enough to persist on a perminent basis....
Coils generally have a 12 or a 6 stamped on the base or in the part # depending on maker....
12 is 12v 6 is balast.
using 12v on a ballast and visa versa theengine runs for 20 mins or so...and dies, will not start...and after cleaning plugs and alsorts of side of the road stuff, it fies up fine runs another 5 or 10 mins and dies....

No the balast is not about pionts wear..it has to do with current draw to the starter on cold starts

Point burning is directly related to the value of the condeser.....the "burning issue came about because ppl would go to a 12v 'sports' coil, by pass the balast , and not change the value of the condesor shortening the life of the pionts

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 12, 06:27 AM
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Re: Success!!

Resistance wire controls peak current built in the coil.

Condensor (capacitor) absorbs inductive collapse on primary side, protecting the points from arcing.

Resistance wire bypassed when cranking to increase peak current built in coil, with a resultant increase in secondary flyback voltage when points open to help ignite overly rich mixture.

So Steps - you be correct. The condensor is what really keeps the points alive. If you bypass the resistance wire on a standard point ignition, the peak voltage on the primary will become excessive for the condensor to continually absorb, and it will damage it. Brief exposure while cranking is OK. Rating of condensor depends on coil (inductance and turns ratio).

Sorry man - I be an engineer stuck doing HR stuff this week...
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