What's your volt meter read under full load - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 12, 04:22 AM Thread Starter
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What's your volt meter read under full load

I have a 69 that I have been having some issues with electrically. Whilt running without anything powered up(no lights, radio, a/c etc) my Auto Meter gauge reads 14. As I add all those things It drops off getting closer to 13 and then may dip below that. Add in that I am also running dual elec radiator fans, have recently added a new keyless ignition Ididit column. I have relays for the headlights, fans, starter and a/c. I had a 100 amp alt and even changed to a 140 amp. Still have the issue and it causes my headlights to flicker or go out. Can't have that. Any suggestions or what is your meter reading when everything is on.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 12, 11:27 AM
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

Assuming your gauge is accurate, should be showing 14.5-14.6 with engine running and accessories on. Should not drop much when the electric fans kick in, maybe drop to 14.2-14.3. Must be something else going on. What gauge wire are you using for the 140 amp alt? Assuming batt is not in the trunk, should be minimum 6, maybe even 4 gauge. Does it connect right to the batt. or ? Lot's of other threads/posts on how to check alt., etc. My volt gauge reads 14.6 with 350 engine running and dual electric fans on....maybe drops to 14.4 with air on, fans running, radio on, headlights on (350 V8, 100 amp alt., dual electric fans, Gen 4 Vintage Air).
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 12, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

I know my volts should be steady at 14 give or take with everything going. Battery is in the normal spot. I am using a Ford remote solenoid setup like Mark's kits are from MAD electrical. Don't know exact guage. Heavy duty on the wiring. Battery + connects to junction block besides the battery. Power feeds the fans and lights etc from there. Alt is wired as a 3 wire set up. This has started since I installed the Ididit column and have talked with them (Ididit). Also have talked to Craig at AAW since part of the Ididit column uses the AAW modubox for the hi/lo beam system. I have been looking for good tight grounds. And I usually have star washers to help with grounds. I had exactly as what you show Joe for a/c, fans, alt etc. Just need to find out whats shorting out or pulling to many volts.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 12, 01:36 PM
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

At what rpms?...if at idle, yep its normal to have a small drop off...even a slight drop in rpms as the extra load goes on the alternator...
If rpms are increase to a fast idle, volts, loading goes back to normal?
Check the battery loading...or if can get at them , each battery cell sperfic gravity of the acid...
Assuming...as mentioned above , the wire gauges are large enough...quick check, the espec at the terminals....they are not getting warm.
Star washers, are they std pressed or stainless....I lost faith in the std mass produced pressed yrs ago..crap steel, crap hardness, espec to penitate modern type paints.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 12, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

Steps what did you mean quick check the espec at the terminals?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 12, 11:13 PM
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

Quote:
quick check, the espec at the terminals....they are not getting warm.
When say u have a starter not working because of a dirty terminal, its pissing down with rain...touch each terminate one will be hotter...that is where the fault lays if bad connection.....

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 12, 03:43 AM
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

I would suspect since the major current load is the front, ie, headlamps, fans, and battery, the red wire running about the engine compartment is probably still OE gauge #10 AWG.

As suggested by Joe, you should swap out the #10 AWG for #8, or better #6 AWG, from alt BATT stud to horn relay buss bar, from buss bar to junction block, and j/block to battery post as I would guess the heavy power accessories get their power from these two points.

The power demanded is controlled by the weakest link, the wire gauge, bigger gauge wire, more power flows.

The symptom Steps is describing is a high resistance connection; power going through a dirty joint, heat is given off. The hotter the joint, the higher the dissipation of power - high power in, low power out, joint is hot.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 12, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

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Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
When say u have a starter not working because of a dirty terminal, its pissing down with rain...touch each terminate one will be hotter...that is where the fault lays if bad connection.....
Thanks Steps. I'll do that.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 12, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

I did some checking back on MAD site to see what guage wire is used. Looks like for the new charging and starting either #8 or #10 wire is used.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 12, 08:13 PM
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

8 & 10 gauge are too small for a 140 amp. alt. Suggest 6 gauge from the alt. all the way to the battery. As Everett indicates, your alt. to horn relay wire may be 8 gauge, but the horn relay to batt. factory wire (runs in front of the radiator support) is probably too small. You won't get all the juice you should from the alt.to the battery. The Powermaster web site has charts that may help.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 12, 08:47 PM
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

"I know my volts should be steady at 14 give or take with everything going. Battery is in the normal spot. I am using a Ford remote solenoid setup"

This, coupled with many false statements on both sides is just a representative of the joke of internet BS.

The truth can be decided by a vote of idiots. Facts are determined by committee.

To the OP, there's no such thing as normal, and a Ford solenoid is more problem than cure.

A car battery is in perfect health 12.6V with all players off.
An old GM car running with a few things, maybe all, or not, 14.5V

Note Volts, but many things are measured in Amps. They aren't the same

Last edited by 67sc; Jun 27th, 12 at 09:14 PM.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 12, 08:45 AM
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
I would suspect since the major current load is the front, ie, headlamps, fans, and battery, the red wire running about the engine compartment is probably still OE gauge #10 AWG.

As suggested by Joe, you should swap out the #10 AWG for #8, or better #6 AWG, from alt BATT stud to horn relay buss bar, from buss bar to junction block, and j/block to battery post as I would guess the heavy power accessories get their power from these two points.

The power demanded is controlled by the weakest link, the wire gauge, bigger gauge wire, more power flows.
Ted,

I agree with what Joe and Everett said about the wire from the alternator, horn relay buss bar and then to battery. #6 wire is the correct size.

Read this from mad electric. Very informative of remote voltage sensing, how a alternator senses electrical loads.

http://madelectrical.com/electricalt...esensing.shtml

Also I would have all the power wires for the fans terminate to the volage regulator buss bar. This way the alternator senses the load.

As far as a ford solenoid goes,, there is nothing wrong with them. I have had one on my camaro for 18 years.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 12, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet69camaro View Post
Ted,

I agree with what Joe and Everett said about the wire from the alternator, horn relay buss bar and then to battery. #6 wire is the correct size.

Read this from mad electric. Very informative of remote voltage sensing, how a alternator senses electrical loads.

http://madelectrical.com/electricalt...esensing.shtml

Also I would have all the power wires for the fans terminate to the volage regulator buss bar. This way the alternator senses the load.

As far as a ford solenoid goes,, there is nothing wrong with them. I have had one on my camaro for 18 years.

Mike by MAD New system wiring diagrams is how mine is wired now. With the gauge wires he has shown. By that diagram what wire needs to be changed to the 6 ga.? the one from the alt to the junction block by the firewall? Or from that junction block forward to the horn relay which is really just another junction block. I think currently I have 8 ga running from the firewall jb to a jb up by the battery. Where my dual fans and battery power for headlights is connected.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 12, 10:13 AM
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

With the factory wiring the buss bar on the horn relay is where the alternator senses the load.

Is yours wired like the factory.

You need to replace the #10 wire from the alternator to the horn relay then to the battery.

As suggested by Joe, you should swap out the #10 AWG for #8, or better #6 AWG, from alt BATT stud to horn relay buss bar, from buss bar to junction block, and j/block to battery post as I would guess the heavy power accessories get their power from these two points.

When I wire my cars I run all my power wires to a juction block and my grounds to a terminal block. You can see the round terminal with all the red wires. There is also 2 #6 wires there. One from the battery and one from the alternator. This is the same principal as MAD's remote sensing wiring.




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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 12, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: What's your volt meter read under full load

My batt + wire runs to a junction block by the batt on the rad support. My dual fans run power from that junction block. I also run a 8 guage wire to another junction block on the other side of the support and pull power there for the headlights thru relays and a 30 amp breaker. My alt wire (8) I run back to the junciton block on the firewall and pull power from there for a/c and such. If I remember correctly there is a 8 guage wire from firewall junction block up to the junction block by the batt.
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