is junk - I've never had problem-1
with the newer CS130 in many applications
The only 'tricks' I know are a good system designed to meet your needs.
It's important to design new feeds for new accessories and not try to adapt or 'tap' them into the original system - it won't handle most modern items very well ...
If I'm using parts of the original system, or restoring/rewiring it, I always make sure to check all the factory splices (and taps) to be sure they are 100% mechanically and electrically sound - it's easy to untape these and resolder/crimp them while you're checking the system.
I also routinely rewire the primary feeds with new wiring of at least the original gauge or, most often, a size slightly larger or calc'd to handle the loads expected in the system.
I'll also install new connectors at most locations. Old connectors get 'worn' and can contribute to bad connections after all these years of service. You can buy new connector ends from many vendors and at most car-show swaps.
Changing the alternator to a modern higher output unit requires rewiring the system to allow for the increased amperage.
You'll need a new wiring system from the alternator to the distribution block, new wiring from the block to bat. and maybe even a dedicated ground path from the alt. to the bat to insure the max. output can be handled.
If installing accessories in the trunk or rear of the vehicle, it is important to install a distribution point designed for those loads back there. Fusing should be located at the source for these points.
I also recommend using the 'remote' sense wiring provided by the newer CS series systems. These may not be absolutely required for most 'stock' car applications where the distance from alt. to bat. to accessories is fairly short - but there are still benefits from having it wired as GM intended. I routinely install the 'sense' wire connection at the farthest distribution point location from the alt. to be sure the full system voltage is monitored there vs. at the output of the alt.
Moving the bat. to the trunk of course involves all of the above, plus system considerations for charging and starting systems and distribution from that point.
A new sound system should also be wired directly from the distribution block with proper fusing.
Same goes from electric fan systems, higher draw lighting systems and other modern accessories - a separate system designed and fused for that load is needed.
You can really increase the operational characteristics of higher draw systems, like headlights, by using a relay system to feed direct voltage from the distribution point to the lamps vs. the OEM wiring which routed the power from distribution through firewall then switch(es) and then back through firewall to lamp - loosing as much as 30~50% of the system rated voltage in the process ...
Me likey relays
Lots of other things can (or should) be done to meet specific needs on some vehicles, only knowing the exact need and use can guide you there.
I have actually wired a small 'Brick' PLC into a vehicle to monitor systems and provide feedback data - that was a fun project.
Even programmed it to be the 'Alarm' system
I've still got one to someday install in one of mine