Re: cheap wiring kit.
You can still catch the AAW Classic Update kit on sale with various resellers for $450 or thereabouts. Check Musclerodz , ebay. The higher prices for Update kits are retail/MRP, but you ought to be able to find a sale or a vendor who worries more about volume than every last dollar out of each kit. I just checked MuscleRodz and it looks like $529 for the kit, but Mike is a member here so maybe there is a Team Camaro discount. That or just watch for a sale for a while.
If the fuse panel on the kit shown in the OP is accurate to the kit, it looks like a "hot rod" kit. Where would you mount the fuse panel, and what would you do with the OE firewall hole. Are the wires the highest quality available, marked at regular intervals with the circuit name? Does it use hardware store connectors, or does it include every "normal" factory connector for each circuit specific to each car make? And like others asked, does the company have any tech support and how long has it been in business?
Wiring is very much one of the critical places in the car where you do not want to scrimp unless the car is a trailer queen or a race car. Even Painless, which has been around for a long time, is known for having really, really lousy tech support. If you are on a budget and want a street rod style kit like in the OP, you might as well drop down to an EZ Wire kit. For a race car or a street rod without a lot of accessories, you can get away with a very basic wiring setup, and where and how it mounts are less of a concern.
The AAW Classic Update kit is far and away the best front to back wiring kit for our cars (and others) where a factory appearance is not critical. Then again, I wrapped and routed mine such that only a guru could tell. And the directions are excellent, and tech support is great.
If you can save/reuse your existing underdash harness (and are not adding things like power windows, power seats, etc.) you'd be better off just getting the new Factory Fit plug in harnesses you need than inviting electrical headaches of an unknown, probably overseas made kit.
For those with lesser eyesight, the brand in OP is Keep It Clean. Unfortunately the search engine here won't let you use "keep" or "it". I tried "keep clean wiring" and got the error about "keep" being to common, too short, etc., and "clean wiring" got the default 16 pages of what look like mostly unrelated threads.
Darren, I think in addition to waiting for someone who has used Keep It Clean products to weigh in here, you might want to google things like "keep it clean wiring camaro" and/or "keep it clean wiring team camaro". I find that since some changes were made to the search engine here, you can actually go out to Google and find info on Team Camaro better than using the search function here. Try searching "Keep It Clean wiring quality" too, and look for results from here or HotRodders.com, or one of the other high traffic, high knowledge level forums.
Maybe it's ok? But I know that I have a buddy with a half dozen or so early 50s pickups in various stages of resto/mod, and after hearing his horror stories about EZ wire in his 50 F-1, I recommended he look at AAW Highway series for one of his 54 Chevy 3100s, and he was so happy he can't stop talking about it. He plans to yank the EZ kit out of the F-1 as soon as he can. Maybe Keep It Clean is better than EZ, but...
Make sure you ask the questions about whether there are new, high quality exact factory replacement termination connectors or generic connectors, and which factory devices (e.g., horn relay/master bus bar, voltage regulator) need to be reused. Also, make sure it is set up for normal 3-wire alternator (internal or external reg, depending which way you're going) vs. a 1-wire, and ask if it has leads for a tach, idiot lights or gauges, etc. The connector thing is very important unless you want to end up trying to reuse the factory connectors off the old harnesses (if you have them, and if the ones you have used all the right connectors you need for the direction your build is going) or buying new connectors, which gets expensive in a hurry by the piece. And knowing basically how it is set up is important because if you need to get any other new components because the kit reuses them, like the horn relay/bus bar, then the $$ saved again goes away quick.
Maybe ask in advance for a copy of a wiring diagram because some of the aftermarket/rod kits group the circuits in odd ways that are hard to make work if you still have mostly GM stuff to hook to. I know that most of my tech calls to AAW during the install of my 69 Update Kit were to discuss how the kit grouped some circuits differently than factory, and was impressed by the overall technical knowledge at AAW in that some of the new/different circuits were much improved over OE. The horn relay is in under the dash (I put mine in the center 69 flasher clip in the middle of the dash), and there is no master bus bar, and no external voltage regulator. The instructions were very clear and comprehensive, with diagrams and pictures as needed.
So, like I said, maybe someone who has used Keep It Clean is here and can offer input, but in the meantime you may want to do some more checking online. Details such as wire gage and quality, insulation composition and heat rating and abrasion resistance rating, connector style, fuse box quality and mounting, and circuit grouping really make a difference. IMO, unless you could make a really cheap kit like EZ Wire work for you, the difference between a $375 kit and a $450-$530 kit is not significant, especially when a lesser quality (than AAW) kit could leave you stranded, take forever to install, have you running around trying to source connectors, and maybe burn the car down.
Now watching Danica and Miranda Lambert in "Fastest Girl in Town" video with the ladies in a Cortez/black 69 with DX1 stripes ripping along country roads... 1st gens are just the coolest... can't wait until mine is home again.
69 'vert project big block/TKO 600 RR
68 'vert driver RS clone -- gone!