If you search here using "pertronix" you'll find many. many threads on the various choices to convert the existing points distributor. Some of them are good, some not.
Do you have any idea how many miles are on your existing distributor? If it is OE, you should find a stamping on the housing face just below the cap (don't have to take anything apart, but you may need a degreasing rag and a mirror to find the stamping depending on where it is right now). Having/posting this number will give us the ability to tell you if it is likely OE, if you don't know.
If the distributor has high miles and you can live without driving the car for a bit, you're probably going to want to pull the distributor out and inspect some of the rest of the parts to see if you need anything else. Make sure you mark, on the engine, where the rotor is pointing, and where the vac advance module is pointing. I usually just clean any greasy surfaces and then stick down some good masking or duct tape in the general area, and then make a line with a Sharpie. If you do end up pulling the distributor, you will still need to be ready to set/adjust timing with a timing light when you're done, but having the current positions marked will keep you from dropping it back inn out of phase. Your engine drives the oil pump shaft off the bottom inside of the distributor gear, so when you reinstall, the tang on the gear fits into a slot in the top of the oil pump shaft. So, unless something happens while the distributor is out, the worst you could do is put it back in 180 degrees out. Having current positions of things marked means that things should be close enough for the engine to start, or be close to starting, when you put it pack together.
After hearing many horror stories about the Pertronix and similar conversion kits (which I think have mostly been addressed by improvements by the manufacturers in the years since 2004/2005 when I was figuring out what I wanted for mine), I found many, many good things said about conversions by Dave Ray. Here is his site:
Dave has been hard to reach from time to time, because of some health issues, but I think he is back now. What I liked about his work was that it uses common, off the shelf parts (so if down the line I had problems, I could get parts locally) and that he takes all your car's specs and uses his lifetime of knowledge (and his distributor machine; how many places even have those any more??) to put the right weights and springs in to get the most performance right out of the box. You could search "small body" here and probably find many threads (including some of mine) that show not only Dave's work but also a lot of discussion about the other choices. I liked that I got a completely new HEI distributor in my OE housing (I actually used the OE 327/210 distributor out of my 68 as the basis for my 69 396 HEI build), and unless you know where to look, it looks bone stock. I guess the same can be said for any of the "in cap" conversion kits. But, with my detailed specs, Dave got the distributor set 100% perfect for my combo, and I have not had to fool with weights or springs on my own. Tuning weights and springs isn't that big a deal, but these days you usually need to order a kit (separate from any HEI conversion kit) to get the distributor really dialed in. Dave did all the hard work for me, and I have about 1500 or so trouble free miles and consider that less than $200 "investment" one of my best choices.
Likewise, I have heard many good things about the MSD Ready to Run (I think it is 8360; wait, one of the guys above confirmed that...). May be able to search "8360" here and find the numerous discussions on that unit (never sure how the "new" search engine will like numbers).
Once you have identified a kit or two that converts what you have now, you should be able to go on Summit or the manufacturer's website and download the installation PDF. Then you can figure out if it can be done with the distributor in the car (I think most of them can be) and whether you are up to the install.