Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 13, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

I've already installed an alarm and a stereo (plan on an amp and sub later). Getting ready to install 5 electric gauges and thought it would be a good time to look at my electrical system. I've got a 1 wire alternator, pic below, and I don't know how many amps it is. It's marked Delco Remy K 6. I couldn't find any other marks. Any idea how many amps its rated for?

Not sure how long I should/can use this as I start adding more load to the system. I'm reading the Mad Electric articles on 3 wire vs 1 wire as well as the archives here and to be honest my head is spinning. Any reasoned opinions would be welcome.
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1967 350, Hurst TKO 600 5 speed, 12 bolt 3:55 posi, RS added

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 13, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

1 wire
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 13, 06:20 PM
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

On the case, next to the adjustment bolt, should be stamped with amperage rating of alt.
The added benefit of a 3-wire is better load control as the sense wire is can be from the fuse panel and the excite wire will be from the ign switch and the alt will instantly start working as a 1-wire needs some rpms to start working.
'
If you plan on using the existing alt, you will have to change the internal regulator to a stock replacement and add the two wires mentioned above.

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 13, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Thanks Everette. I"ll likely go with a 3 wire but have some more learning/investigating to do. I called Mad Electric today but no one answered. Looking at my existing wiring there may have been a 3 wire alt installed before. When I unwrapped all the tape from the wire coming off the alt I found a blue and white wire there. Traced it back under the fender, above the wheel well where the previous owner has 3 relays tucked away. There may be a voltage regulator up here as well, I just can't see. If those blue and white wires lead there then it's likely there was a 3 wire system before? Thats the schematic i've seen for a 3 wire. Sometime in the next few days I'm going to pull all that out to see what's what.

When it comes to a new alt what would you recommend for amp rating? Bigger is better?
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 13, 12:38 PM
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

The amperage stamping (if you find it) is what the alternator was originally. If it's a rebuilt unit (likely) it could be anything.

These old cars all came with 3 wire alternators. The P/O probably just tucked the two he wasn't using into the harness. The voltage regulator should be in plain sight on the core support, driver's side. If not he probably removed it and tucked that end of the harness as well.

If you don't have a huge amount of electrical add-ons such as a monster stereo, a 63A SI series alternator will be more than enough and you won't need to upgrade the wiring. You could use a 100A alt or bigger and still not upgrade the wiring if you don't have a huge amperage load because the alt will only deliver what's needed. If you actually need to draw 100A, then upgrade the wiring.


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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 13, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Thanks for the info guys. I'd like to straighten out the wiring but want to be cautious - everything works now so I don't want to muck it up. The bad pic below is the relays, with the black mass on the left being the wheel well arch (pic was rotated when imported). I'll carefully pull it out this weekend and see if a voltage reg is in there. I've seen posts by Everette talking about a digital VR (there's a name and part number in the post). I'm a little confused: isn't "SI" system integrated, meaning the VR is built in? If so, why do the schematics I've seen show the white and blue wires going from an SI Alt to an external VR?
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 13, 04:52 PM
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Those relays are probably for your RS headlight system.

Yes - SI is for system integrated which is an internally regulated alternator. They should not be used with external regulator. The schematics you have seen probably show how the wires that plugged into the external regulator need to be dealt with - likely dashed lines showing jumpers between the outer 2 wires and the inner two wires.


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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 13, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

This is the diagram I've got. You're right about the dashed lines. How would those be dealt with? Connect the brown to blue and red to white? Ideally when I get those relays and whatnot into the light of day I'll be able to diagram what I've got and get someone to tell which wires to attach where and what alt to get. I know this probably isn't as complicated as I feel it is right now, just waiting for it to click and the light bulb to go off!
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 13, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

...and this is the diagram I have for fuses...
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 13, 06:19 PM
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Carl View Post
You're right about the dashed lines. How would those be dealt with? Connect the brown to blue and red to white?
You can solder and heat shrink them and stuff them back in the harness, or....

You can do this - I shamelessly stole this picture from Greg O



or you can buy this slick kit from AAW that pretty much takes care of it just by plugging in a couple of things.

https://www.americanautowire.com/sho...onversion-kit/

Here's a recent thread on the topic:

https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=215192


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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 13, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Thanks again. I've bookmarked/subscribed to that thread and will use it for reference. Funny how one little project leads to ever increasingly larger projects. Started out wanting to replace a diode by the ignition switch to get my hideaway headlights to close, which turned into "if I'm going to have the dash gauge housing out why don't I replace the gauges while I'm at it" to "might as well upgrade the electrical too"...

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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 13, 07:27 PM
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Carl View Post
Funny how one little project leads to ever increasingly larger projects.
It's called "Snowball Effect."

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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 13, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
It's called "Snowball Effect."
Or Scope Creep, Change Order, or Mo Money, Mo Time...

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 13, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Ok, so I've received almost all of the parts I ordered for the gauge, ignition and cig lighter project. UPS has been raining down boxes on my porch and every day is Chrstmas! Only thing left is to deal with the alternator. Figure a 3 wire 12SI 100amp. Any comments on these (link below)? Will they fit without issue in my stock location? I'm ready to order, just need someone to give me a kick or shove in the right direction. As always, thanks for your help!

http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...ord=Alternator

Pic of my current alt and location:
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 13, 10:20 PM
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Re: Alternator ID, electrical can 'o worms

Anyway, one way to gauge things is to measure the voltage at some distance from the alternator. As in by the steering wheel.

Clean all the connections where things can be taken apart in the electrical system. Then run the car and measure the voltage to ground at the lighter or fusebox.
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