Wiring rebuilt 327 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 13, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring rebuilt 327

So I finally dropped in my 327 which I rebuilt. I am now dealing with the wiring harness. I have the whole front end of the car off (inner wheel wells fender header panel etc). I though I could have hooked up my old harness and start my motor but I have had no luck. When I took the car apart the engine fired up nicely.
How should I go about diagnosing what my problem is? I have the ignition harness hooked up to the motor harness that goes from the fuse box to the coil and down to the starter. I have hooked up the wiper motor as well.
The way I have the starter hooked up is the purple wire to the post near the motor and the yellow one to the post closes to the wheel. I then have the large post in the middle of the starter solenoid to the battery. I have also checked the ground and it seems to be good.

Any ideas as to what else I should check?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 13, 04:23 PM
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

The power wire to the dash, that runs across the core support,
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 13, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

Quote:
Originally Posted by john68 View Post
The power wire to the dash, that runs across the core support,
Im not sure I get what wire you are talking about. Does that wire come directly from the battery?

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 13, 06:38 PM
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

There are two harnesses in the front end.
One for the engine, the other for the rest, lights and power supply.
OE wiring has battery, a pigtail from the positive cable to battery junction block on the radiator support. A red wire from there to the horn relay buss bar and a wire from the hr buss bar to firewall and along the way, alternator red wire is spliced in supplying battery power for the electrical system and battery recharge.

The return side is ground straps from the firewall to the engine block, normally valve cover bolts, and cable to the negative battery post. Got to have a complete circuit to make it work.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 13, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
A red wire from there to the horn relay buss bar and a wire from the hr buss bar to firewall and along the way, alternator red wire...
What is the hr buss bar?

I believe to have everything hooked up but still can't get my ignition to work. Where should I do a voltage check to make sure I have current flowing to my ignition.

There is also a yellow wire coming out next to my ignition switch what is it?

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 13, 04:41 AM
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

Quote:
Originally Posted by XedLos View Post
What is the hr buss bar?
Horn relay buss bar - the section of the relay normally having two red wires connected to the screws. One wire from the battery positive post via the junction block next tothe battery and the other red wire from the firewall connector supplying powe to the rest of the electrical system. As said, also a splice of the alternator red wire from the alt BATT stud.
Quote:
I believe to have everything hooked up but still can't get my ignition to work. Where should I do a voltage check to make sure I have current flowing to my ignition.
Fuse panel, BAT spade. No power, no workie.
Quote:
There is also a yellow wire coming out next to my ignition switch what is it?
Normally, by OE design, there is no yellow wire from the ign switch. Only dk green, brown, purple, red, and pink, I believe.

Maybe these 1969 attachments will help.

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Last edited by Everett#2390; Jan 29th, 14 at 09:22 AM.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 13, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
Fuse panel, BAT spade. No power, no workie.
Thanks for the help But unfortunately I still cant seem to get it working. I checked the voltage on the back of the ignition switch and I was getting a bit over 12V. But when I turn the key nothing happens.

Should I be able to get a voltage reading across the horn relay contacting both bolt heads?


I still dont know what the yellow wire is for.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 13, 11:59 AM
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

Yes, you will measure battery voltage on each screw referenced to ground (neg post), BUT, should not measure battery voltage across them. If you do, remove them and wire brush the terminals and bar, and/or stack the wires onto one screw.

The concern is the no voltage in start. You have voltage in IGN, but not START.
It reads as may have a bad ign switch or a bad connection of the wiring to the next wiring.
For example, start measuring at the pos post, START position, battery voltage (BV). Follow the red wire and where you lose BV, the bad joint. One meter probe on the stud, not the terminal. The joint with no BV is the corroded joint, high resistance.

Just like a water hose, water off, plenty of pressure (BV). Open the nozzle, water flows.
Same with current, if a high resistance joint is present, the joint will only allow a small current flow, hence the lower voltage reading.

You might sub in a starter pushbutton switch just for troubleshooting the ign switch, and it could be bad, purple wire needs BV for solenoid. Ensur eyou have the solenoid yellow wire hooked up to R terminal and coil + terminal as '67 ign sw does not have ign voltage in START position.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 13, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

Well I check all my editing and grounds and everything but I still can't start the car. I do get 12v on my ignition and when I turn it to ON I get 12v going to the yellow wire on the starter. I get no reading from the purple wire on the starter though. Any other ideas as to what I should check?

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 13, 06:37 PM
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

If car was originally an auto trans, you have to jumoper the Neutral Safety Switch, the two purple wires.
Otherwise, the purple from the ign switch goes to the pass side firewall connector and to the S terminal on the solenoid. Straight shot, except for firewall connector.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 13, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

The car originally had a power glide now I have a4 speed.
I'm not sure what you meant by "jumoper" which 2 purple wires do you mean? There is one I the ignition switch that goes to the starter right

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 13, 07:38 PM
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

Take a look at post 11. The switch is mounted under your dash on top of the column.

https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=163114

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 13, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring rebuilt 327

Thanks a lot guys I got things working now

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