Fuel gage needle on speedometer? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 14, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 394
Fuel gage needle on speedometer?

So I was having the typical bouncing needle and grinding speedometer sound (before I knew I was supposed to lube the speedo cable) and the last time I drove the car, the speedometer needle busted in half. I recently lost my job so I can't afford to buy a new speedometer. I have the old fuel gage still that I took out when I put the tach in and I was wondering.....could I just take that needle off the fuel gage and install it on my speedometer? What do ya think?

Also, regarding lubing the speedo cable, do you just squirt some oil down the housing or is there a specific way you lubricate it?
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 14, 01:50 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 13,319
Re: Fuel gage needle on speedometer?

I have done this on many a vintage gauge over the yrs
most needle if look under a magnifying glass are press fit, often having a split on the shaft
It has to be done slow bit at a time and with a bit of thought.
a very fine set of long nose pliers.. maybe with a bend in the end... can by these for a few dollars at what we call in NZ "$2 dollars shop"... shelves of elcheapo chinese manufactured junk stuff.
hole the shaft of the gauge so when u pull/ lever the needle off u dont pull at all on the internals of the gauge.... slowly.
then put a tiny drop of rtv silicone sealant on the end of the new needle and poke up inside the hole with a pin or needle.
Then carefully push on to the shaft, again holding so no stress is put on the internals of the gauge
Align and leave for a good 24 hrs

If a temp or oil pressure gauge u will have to calibrate set the needle.
Anologe gauges do not read accurate at top and bottom ends... but do in the middle... which is why 'normal' reading is always 1/2 way.
Set up the gauge so normal reading ...say 180 degree or normal pressure whatever
let let the rtcv silicone cure for 10 mins just enough not to have set ... but tacky to hold...and point to the mid point....u may have to maintain so the needle doesnt drop back on a stop pin and move out of position

If time is a problem here... use 5 min epoxy.. but rem next time u will not be able to remove the needle again in the future.

lube cable
NEVER use oil.. it will eventually climb up into the speedo and go around the gauge numbers looking messy and eventually lift of the numbers

There is the maintenance and full 'refurbish'

maintenance is generally what always works and best.
Work from the bottom not from the top....
pull the cable wipe , clean , push / turn back up , pull wipe clean repeat , repeat repeat till starts coming out reasonable.
now wipe a good quality grease ....I now use Evenrude (outboard motors boats) marine triple guard... this stuff doesnt go hard like clay... even after yrs.
Dont get carried away with too much... push and turn the cable up.. pull out re wipe more grease on , and repeat till when u feel u have a nice even spread but not packed full up the whole length .. common sense here.

Refurbish is removing the whole cable, soaking up the inside with de greaser....poke back an forth with the cable and flush out till clean....hose out with water.. degrease dissolves crap in water... blow out reasonably dry with air... flush with methylated spirits.. to remove any water... blow out dry.
The re grease as above.
If u a re pulling out hard clay like grease... go the refurbish way.

Just re read your post
Oh... a broken needle doesnt need replacing....if not too bent / distorted after re straighten very carefully....one can splint the broken bit back on.
Use a paper wire tie.. u get plastic ones that tie up power cords when open up the box... but us a paper one.
trim the paper edges so fit hidden under the needle.....some 5 min epoxy, wipe into the paper one side, and a fine layer on the underside of the broken needle bits... press the paper tie with as much as possible sticking out to the underside of the broken off part.....then 'connect up with the out 1/2 and press the paper /wire up under the other part... let set.
When dry... I like a good 12/ 24 hrs using a sewing needle and some match modelling paint.. a tiny drop on the join in the right place. Once the gauge is mounted behind the dash glass cant bee seen.

I cant emphasis enough , slow easy take your time, patience, no short cuts.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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