wells VR 715 install - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 14, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Len
 
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wells VR 715 install

After reading all the positive posts on this forum on the vr715 regulator I installed one today on my 68...works great..no more pulsing headlights....I did not put the radio noise condenser from my original back on as was recommended....I tuned my am radio to an off station and i have static that increases as the engine revs....so I installed the condenser and I still have noise...When I tune to a station I can't hear the static so no big deal...unfortunately I didn't check for noise with the original regulator....I am curious why wells provides a terminal for the condenser if it is not needed and if i leave the old condenser installed will it hurt anything(even if it is bad from being so old)....Thanks Len
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 14, 03:06 PM
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Re: wells VR 715 install

Are the other noise reduction condensers still in place? The unit on the Voltage Regulator reduced the noise generated by the mechanical regulator therefor in the solid state Wells/AirTex units is non functioning but can be hooked up for "show" especially if you removed the mechanical VR's cover and put it on the Wells for "show."

I would expect that the noise you are hearing on the AM band is from the points if you are still running original ignition since you said it changes with revs of the engine.

If the static changed with speed of the heater fan it would be that condenser. I seem to remember the VR noise was a popping noise as the regulator opened and closed the charge circuit but it has been 30 years since I ran into that sound on a regular basis.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 14, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Re: wells VR 715 install

Hi Brian....Yes still use points....There is a condenser mounted on the coil bracket...I will have to check the blower motor...I thought maybe wells made a provision for the condenser to quiet the alternator too ??....If I leave the condenser plugged in and mounted on the vr 715 will it hurt anything??..If the condenser goes bad will it cause problems?.......Thanks Len ( I guess if the condenser is not needed I should just take it off and forget about it)
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 14, 05:54 PM
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Re: wells VR 715 install

It will not hurt anything by being used on the Wells. I don't really know if the alternator ever fed back through the VR circuit. I do know the points were easily picked up by the tuner set. You might also look for an AM radio interference reducer that fits in the antenna port and the antenna plugs into it. Most all modern radio sets have static elimination gear built in. Or throw this type of filter on the radio power lead. http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-NS12-InLine-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0007V5X4U/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1


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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 14, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: wells VR 715 install

Thanks Brian...I am going to take the condenser off and save it with the original vr.....Still seems strange to me wells would have the connector if it wasn't needed.....I am using the original am radio with rear mount antenna so the antenna is further from the engine which I think is good to reduce ign noise....I will look into the radio power wire suppressor.. Len
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 14, 08:16 PM
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Re: wells VR 715 install

Its all about the Wells/Airtex product designers and the units design.

Although it has changed in recent years the first generation of it was identical to the GM mechanical VR part, including a hi-hat plastic cap and two unused screw hole locations. It only took about three seconds curiosity and bam it dawned on most of us that all you had to do is remove the Wells/Airtex plastic cap and put your GM metal one on and instant GM VR but solid state. A few stamps with a die and your date code transferred to the base and who would know by the once over when mounted.

Some guys even went as far as to hot glue springs to the bottom plate so it really looked on the outside like a mechanical VR. Some took the base plates of their mechanical units, gutted the mechanicals and then mounted the SS circuit board and soldered the connections from the original base plate to the new board. I tried it and found it a lot of work and never did it again.

Now the most recent one bought and installed in my own ride had a short plastic cap with no screw holes drilled - but the tabs for the screw holes were still there. It was like $6.00 bucks with Rock Auto dot com's Team Camaro discount. This is the single most cost effective solution for poor electrical performance I have ever done for folks. Especially when they have upgraded headlights.


As for the radio signal noise reduction equipment, I have always attached the units if the original had them, I'm not sure if the unit is hooked up that it wouldn't limit any noise transfer, but since the Solid State regulator doesn't generate any noise, don't know how it would. But it just looks right with it installed and just a bit naked without.


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