Alternator Conversion - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 04, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Location: LaPorte, Indiana
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I tried to do the alternator conversion last night outlined at the following:

https://www.camaros.net/techref/ftecref14.html

After I finished the conversion I tried to start the car, but it would not start. Didn't get to look into it much, but I don't think its getting spark (it turns over and I can smell the gas)? At the regulator plug I soldered and shrink wrapped the blue and and the brown wires. The other two wires of the plug are just capped off. At the wire loom of the alternator I connected the red wire to the output terminal of the alternator. The original loom blue wire is connected to the brown wire of the alternator plug. The red wire of the alternator plug is connected to the output terminal also. The black wire of the alternator plug is not used. Seems like I followed the directions correctly, but its not working? The only difference is the alternator plug I have has 3 wires, Red, Brown, and Black. Anyone see anything wrong? or any suggsetions on how to fix?

67 Camaro rs/350 HO(est. 401hp)/4L80E/8.5" 10 bolt 3.73
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 04, 11:59 AM
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Mike
 
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Rewiring your alternator with the internal regulator should have nothing to do with your car not starting. Pull a spark plug out and hook the spark plug wire to it and turn over the motor and watch for a spark. If it doesnt then there is something wrong with the ignition system.

Mike
69 Camaro Prostreet - purple w/ghost flames , 502 w/ 871 blower


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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 04, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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It just must be a coincedence, but it ran fine right before I started the conversion and then after it wouldn't start? I will look at it and update.

67 Camaro rs/350 HO(est. 401hp)/4L80E/8.5" 10 bolt 3.73
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 04, 04:16 PM
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One thing about those old carberated cars, they've got a personality. If you don't pump em the right amount on each start you can get them flooded and they'll never start. That especially sucks when you just got done doing something else. No fuel is a common issue for cars that have sat a long time.

You should be able to measure 10 volts or so from the coil (+) to ground with a breaker point ignition on or running. (Give or take a couple of volts for battery condition). During cranking the coil (+) should have a full 12 volts on it. Solid state ignitions will have a full 12V to the ignition module or coil all the time (key in start or run).

Next, disconnect it from the car via the big red wire and the plug (whichever type you have). Repeat the test above and compare the readings. Gotta digital camera? Send me a couple photos (or post them somewhere for viewing) and we'll see if your conversion was done correctly or not.

If that doesn't work, inspect the cap and rotor plugs and wires. Crank it over with the plugs out.

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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