Does a 68 have a neutral switch or not? - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 04, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Camillus NY
Posts: 165
Question

I have a '68 that wont start. I'm wondering if my neutral switch, from what I have been reading, is not connected correctly. The car was originally a power glide on the column. It is now a muncie. Did the '68 have this switch and would it affect my starting problem and how. I hve the purple wire going to my "S" terminal on my solenoid. By the way I have an HEI unit on the car now. Thanks for any advice.

1968 Camaro Z28 clone 327 .030 over, Muncie M20, DUI coil, Edelbrock Performer w/1406 , headers, 274 cam
1963 Chevy Biscayne-2 door, 283 2bbl, powerglide, Mallory Digital ignition
1985 Z-28 LG4, Edelbrock hdrs, Lakewood control arms
rusty Z is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 04, 11:23 AM
Senior Tech
Brandon
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Monroe, NC
Posts: 2,101
Garage
Post

Rusty,
There would be a neutral safety switch on a 68. There was a recent post dealing with it. Look at the base of the steering column.
Try turning your ignition on, then jumping the starter with a long screwdriver between the post with the purple wire and the battery connection. If she starts up you can bet the problem is between the soleoid and the nss.
Nantooch is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 04, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Camillus NY
Posts: 165
Post

Thanks for the response. I'll try that tonight. The wire would still be purple at the base of the column right? If that is the issue do I need to plug it back in to complete the circuit? Thanks

1968 Camaro Z28 clone 327 .030 over, Muncie M20, DUI coil, Edelbrock Performer w/1406 , headers, 274 cam
1963 Chevy Biscayne-2 door, 283 2bbl, powerglide, Mallory Digital ignition
1985 Z-28 LG4, Edelbrock hdrs, Lakewood control arms
rusty Z is offline  
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 04, 12:21 PM
Gold Lifetime Member
Paul
 
PDQUICK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Londonderry, NH
Posts: 1,010
Post

Yes, two heavy purple wires in a black plug at the base of the column. Make sure the column shifter is in "park" or "neutral" position. The switch has two sets of contacts, one for N/S switch and one for the reverse lights (Pink/green wires maybe??) N/S switch terminals are closer to the drivers door.

I have converted my car to a manual and even did the "body work" on the column to remove all evidence of the old shifter. I kept the old neutral safety switch as a poor mans starter kill switch. When I leave the car, I turn the steering column cuff to the "Low" gear position, and turn it back to "Park" to start!

Paul D.
PDQUICK is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 04, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Camillus NY
Posts: 165
Post

I changed my column out completely with a donor from a manual car. I used the internals from that when rebuliding the column. I kept the old stuff though. Do I need it? I still only get my lights coming on when the key is turned, no starter.

1968 Camaro Z28 clone 327 .030 over, Muncie M20, DUI coil, Edelbrock Performer w/1406 , headers, 274 cam
1963 Chevy Biscayne-2 door, 283 2bbl, powerglide, Mallory Digital ignition
1985 Z-28 LG4, Edelbrock hdrs, Lakewood control arms
rusty Z is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 04, 03:27 AM
Senior Tech
Mark
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Shrewsbury, MA, USA
Posts: 6,509
Post

I don't know about the 68's but the 69's were setup so that a maunal transmissioned car had to have the clutch pushed in in order to start. I know 67's had the switch on the linkage for the transmission itself, don't know when Chevy made the transition to the base of the column but I think it was in 68.

There are two sets of terminals on the backup/neutral safety switch. One set has a pair of terminals arranged this way (--) the other has a set like this (=). The (--) is the backup light set. It should have a pink wire (hot) and a light green wire (to lamps). The light green wire runs from the switch to the 10 pin rear body connector located above the parking brake by the drivers side kickpanel. From there it runs to the rear light sockets. Located right above the (=) connector is a clip that holds the connector for the clutch safety switch which is in turn attached to the clutch pedal by a small linkage. The (=) connector is the automatic transmission neutral safety switch that is used when the car does not have a console. There would be a purple and a purple with white stripe connected to the switch if you had a column shift automatic car. This connector is not used on manual or console cars, as the two purple wires plugged into the clutch switch.

There is a vertical rod that attaches to a tab on the lower end of the steering column in the engine compartment. This rod connects to one leg of a "Y" shaped linkage attached to the inside face of the suframe just forward of the clutch linkage. One of the other legs has a rod that attaches to the bottom of the reverse lever on the transmission. This linkage operates both the neutral safety switch (the neutral safety switch is there on the column but not used on a manual tranmission - there is an extra clutch pedal switch added to prevent starting in gear) and backup lights on a 4 speed car. If this rod is either missing or misadjusted you won't have any backup lights.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mark C is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 04, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Camillus NY
Posts: 165
Post

Can I get away with not using the neutrsal safety switch, in other words bypass it? I know I need the reverse lights still. How much of a pain would it be to set up the neutral switch on the muncie then? I have seen the switch parts in Classic. I just really need to start the car soon to break in my motor. Thanks for the info!
Matt

1968 Camaro Z28 clone 327 .030 over, Muncie M20, DUI coil, Edelbrock Performer w/1406 , headers, 274 cam
1963 Chevy Biscayne-2 door, 283 2bbl, powerglide, Mallory Digital ignition
1985 Z-28 LG4, Edelbrock hdrs, Lakewood control arms
rusty Z is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome