Points/Condenser - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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Just exactly what does the condenser in the distributor actually do? If it is bad, what are the symptoms?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 05:20 AM
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the condensor is a capacitor, connected in parallel with the points (from coil neg to ground.)

Capacitors charge when the voltage rises, and discharge when it falls.

It's purpose is to slightly slow the rise and fall of the voltage across the points (when they open and close) to reduce arcing. (sparks!)

If the capacitor shorts, the car will not run.

If it opens, or is disconnected or missing, the car will run fine, but the points won't last as long as they should.

Again, the condensor's only purpose is to extend the life of the points.





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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 05:59 AM Thread Starter
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Jim, thanks for the quick reply.
Since the car will run fine with a bad condenser, I am gonna assume that is not my problem.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 06:24 AM
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And your symptoms are.........
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 08:46 AM
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LOL....If I remember correctly, it currently idles like crap, but he's had several failed attempts at installing a couple of different breakerless modules inside his stock distributor.

and my humble opinion is still that he doesn't have enuf initial in it, and if I was there, I'd give the ditributor a healthy twist and bet it smooths right out.





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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Exactly as Jim said. Very erratic idle, misses and throttle is not very responsive. It also seems to be running extremely rich.
I can unbolt/bolt just about anything but tuning is way out of my league.
Jim, come on down and smack this thing back into shape. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 02:19 PM
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Dave, my man, loosen that distributor hold down a lil, fire it up, pull the vacuam can toward the carb till it sounds right. The idle will come up about 300 rpm, crank it back down, then push the can toward the firewall till the sound changes just a scosh, and lock it down.





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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 05, 02:40 AM
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Okay, good suggestions. I'd use a vacuum gauge on full time manifold port and tune the idle mixture screws for best (highest) vacuum reading.

Adjust curb idle for 900-1000 rpm, readjust mixture screws.

Loosen dist holddown and adjust for max vacuum reading. Use timing light and check timing. At this point, retard timing by 2*. This will prevent a slow starter when engine is hot.

Readjust curb idle to 900-1000 rpm. try a WOT blip to see if engine does not cough, stumble, but, picks up in rpm.

You shaould end up with 28+-32* of dwell, 4* BTDC of base timing at 900 rpm. Sometime this doesn't always work. Alittle more base timing is needed.

Check the venturi boosters in the air horn of carb. If they are dripping fuel, fuel level in bowl is too high, or fuel pressure is too much, highly unlikely. This will make for a rough idle. If level too high, loosen the locknut, hold the large screw, and turn nut CCW to lower the fuel level. There will be fuel spraying everywhere if engine is running.

Drive it up to the Beach, I'll work on it........

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 05, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Again, thanks for the great instructions. I'm gonna print this.
Hopefully, I have an aquaintance coming over this afternoon to help with it.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 05, 01:05 AM
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I give the wrong info,
Quote:
If level too high, loosen the locknut, hold the large screw, and turn nut CCW to lower the fuel level.
One must turn the nut CW to lower the fuel level.
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