another tach question - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 05, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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this sounds stupid but i was looking thru old posts at how to wire a factory tach to a non tach car i saw a link to a site ,but i couldnt get there it said i wasnt allowed to see it funny huh? anyway could someone shed some lite what wires go where and to what posts on the back of the tach/ thanks alot kenny
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 05, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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i tried to open geezers link but it doesnt work anymore thanks
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 05, 03:23 PM
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seems to have that problem sometimes... haven't seen him for a few days, but he'll be around, will see this, and will post a link that works.





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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 05, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
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thanks jim
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 05, 05:22 AM
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What year car do you have? Most of us put that info in our "sig", so it's always there whenever we post a question, makes things easier and eliminate bad answer due to different year cars.

If you poke around in "electrical" there's a bunch of info.

I recently completed adding a repro tictoc tach and a set of auto-meter console guages to my '68, with all factory idiot light remaining funtional, and using a modifed non-tach pcb. All the details are here.

If you're using the dash tach in combination with the repro factory console guage package, best thing is a new pcb and console harness,plus a "guage conversion harness" which is sold by the repro companies.





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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 05, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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its a 67 with auto meter console gauges.i still the gen lite working i moved it to the other side and cut the plastic lens and put where the other was. it works just fine but now i know how tohook up the tach i know it only has 2 wires but i dont want to smoke a 200 dollar part to often, gets expensive.the wife only allows so much for the car budget. do you think buying a electrical manual,is the way to go? you guys havent steered me wrong yet and i thank you very much kenny
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 05, 12:17 PM
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The wiring diagrams are in the "factory assembly manual" I've found the whole thing extremely useful over the years, it shows how everything goes together. Geezer has a lot of other stuff, too, including info on non-guage to guage conversions. I downloaded a lot of his stuff, but mostly what pertains to '68's.

On my new "tictoc tach" there were 3 connections, and it was pretty easy to follow them as far as where they go.... the red one is power, the brown one goes to the distributor, the one that goes into the little clock make it go tictoc... not sure at all about '67 tho. Wonder why this repro stuff don't come with directions?

From what I understand, 67 is different because you don't have to change the pcb...

see if this stuff makes any sense:

1967 REMOVE THE TWIN LOCK TERMINAL FROM ENGINE HARNESS CONNECTOR LOCATION B-Z. WIRING IN THE DASH HARNESS FUSE BLOCK CORRESPONDING TO THIS LOCATION MUST ALSO BE REMOVED. (SEE LOW FUEL INDICATOR AND TACHOMETER HOOKUP PROCEDURES).

LOW FUEL INDICATOR
1967 UNPLUG THE SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER PLUG FROM THE REAR OF THE SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER. THE PLUG IS NUMBERED ABOVE EACH OF THE 12 INPUTS. LOCATION 8 CONTAINS A BLUE/WHITE WIRE. REMOVE THIS TERMINAL AND WIRE FROM THE SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER PLUG. TRACE THE WIRE TO THE FUSE PANEL AND REMOVE BOTH THE TERMINAL WIRE AND WIRE FROM LOCATION B-Z OF THE FUSE PANEL FIRE¬WALL CONNECTOR. THE LIGHT CONNECTED TO THE YELLOW WIRE FROM LOCATION 2 OF THE GAUGE HARNESS CONNECTOR MUST BE PLUGGED IN THE SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER CHASSIS UNDER THE CIRCUIT BOARD IN THE LOW FUEL LIGHT POSITION.

MISCELLANEOUS
1967-68 UNPLUG THE BROWN WIRE FROM SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER PLUG 11 AND TAPE THE END TO PREVENT GROUNDING. THIS WIRE WAS ORIGINALLY USED FOR
THE GEN. LIGHT WHICH IS NOT PRESENT IN THE SPEEDOMETER/TACHOMETER CLUSTER.

TACHOMETER
1967 SELECT THE BROWN WIRE WITH A SPADE TERMINAL (U-SHAPED) AND A TWIN LOCK TERMINAL. CONNECT THE TWIN LOCK TERMINAL TO LOCATION B-Z OF THE ENGINE IGNITION HARNESS FUSE BLOCK CONNECTOR. CONNECT THE SPADE TERMINAL END TO THE DISTRIBUTOR SIDE (-) OF THE COIL

From Geezer, the directions that come with a guage conversion harness. I pasted in everything that looked like it had to do with the dash cluster & tach on a '67...hope it helps.





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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 05, 02:57 PM
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Sorry I haven't been around as much, The IS department pulled the plug on my access outside of corporate sites and at home, I have to pry the kids off AIM. Try http://www.gvtc.com/~rlaa/
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 05, 04:15 PM
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missed ya, Geez!!





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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 05, 04:16 PM
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and they got a lotta nerve shuttin down TC!!! Do they expect you to work?





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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 05, 06:31 PM
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Ahh, They have been complaining about bandwidth usage. Something about 500 puters having to run through corporate in Florida. They’ve got to do a mega buck upgrade on that but they are tied up right now trying to get the whole building on wireless on time for the scheduled deadline..

Ron
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An exercise in interchangeability on a Well optioned 67 SS 350 vert.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 05, 07:35 PM
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Kenny I use my '67 assembly manual all the time and I suggest getting one. In the mean time if you need me to scan and post any pages of it to my site for you let me know.

Bill


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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 05, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the help everyone but i think ill try it outside the car seeing it only has 2 wires
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 05, 04:20 AM
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3... don't forget to run a ground to the metal back!!





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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 05, 04:27 AM
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Heh [img]smile.gif[/img]
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