67 RS Headlights - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 05, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Question

What does it really take to get the electric doors working again? I have most of the new parts like later design motors, (3) new relays, Circuit breaker and limit switches. Plan to get a new front light harness then install it all.
Is there anything else to look for?

1967 RS Tahoe Turquois 327/275<br />1969 Sport Coupe 327/210<br />1971 SS 383/4-speed
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 05, 04:46 PM
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Looks like you are well on your way. However, If your car is not an original RS you may also need the under dash RS harness w/diode. Wiring it right will be the biggest hurdle. Take a look at my web page http://www.retro-electro.net/FAQ.html for help on getting all the wiring right. Good Luck.

67 RS Convertible, 355ci, 650cfm, 5-speed, 12-bolt, 3.90 gears. 12.7 @ 110 mph
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 05, 08:20 PM
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Mark,

Just a thumbs up for the tips on your website regarding the '67 RS headlight system. Appreciate the public info.


-Funk



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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 05, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Angry

Marktat-
Thanks for the good info - I think I am ready to try it.

My car is an original RS, but it looks like the doors haven't operated for several years. Also looks like the wiring near the relays got fried at some time. Is (was) this normal?

Thanks
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 03:56 PM
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Fried wires near the relays are typical of a short, a bad circuit breaker, or an attempt to jump the circuit breaker. Also, check that the circuit breaker is rated at 10 Amps. I have seen restoration suppliers sell the identical looking power convertible top breaker (rated at 30 amps) as the RS circuit breaker.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input regarding the fried wires. Do you know what amperage the system should draw under load? That may be a good place to start. I installed the new motors but didn't connect any wiring yet. The original wires are old seem brittle. Maybe just from age, maybe from an overload.

1967 RS Tahoe Turquois 327/275<br />1969 Sport Coupe 327/210<br />1971 SS 383/4-speed
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 05, 05:11 PM
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Mark
 
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It really depends on which motors you use and how freely you doors are operating. Under heavy load you should see no more than 4 amps. A real fast responding amp meter may indicate 4 amps for a split second as the motors ramp up.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 05, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Great news. The new wiring harness should be safe, particularly if the circuit breaker is really a 10 amp and not a 30 amp.

1967 RS Tahoe Turquois 327/275<br />1969 Sport Coupe 327/210<br />1971 SS 383/4-speed
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 05, 10:29 PM
 
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Re: 67 RS Headlights

I'm trying to hook up the headlight doors on a 67 rs Camaro. I don't think it has the diode that comes from the ignition switch. What, if any, problems will this cause me?.. Also, what is the correct location of the relay panel on the inner fender? Thanks.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 05, 06:26 AM
 
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Re: 67 RS Headlights

I have a 1967 RS/SS and found that the head light switch for a RS has a extra position for a wire. I believe it is to send power to the motors to shut the doors when the lights are turned off. It make connection in the off position.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 05, 08:19 AM
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Re: 67 RS Headlights

Sundance,
You are going to need that diode, without it you will have a short circuit in the RS system when closing the doors. You might find the doors will open OK but the RS circuit breaker will trip when closing the doors. You can get diode at Radioshack for about $3. I list the part number and more diode tips here: http://www.retro-electro.net/FAQ.html
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