How do I remove the ignition switch? - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 01, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Turlock, CA, USA
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Question


I'm trying to remove the ignition switch on my 68 since I believe it is not wired properly. It's the stock wiring harness but one of the previous owners messed it up. It starts but I'm having a problem with the "buzzer" in the horn relay. Anyhow... I'm trying to remove the ignition switch from the dash and I was able to unscrew the bezel by turning to the left but once it almost off, it get's stuck. Is there a trick to removing it? I tried with the key in at different positions. I even saw the tiny hole and stuck a .05 allen wrench in to see if there was a catch lever, but nothing worked.
Any clues on how I can get this off?

While I'm at it, any trick to get the cigarette lighter off? I need to clean up the retainer.

Thanks everyone.



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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 01, 05:27 PM
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Scott
 
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Cool

This one is easy...screw the bezel back down snugly,(disconnect the battery)then find and straighten out a paperclip, insert it into the tiny hole on the ignition switch face. Push it in until you feel spring tension and then turn the key 1/4 turn to the left (I think?!)until you feel a click and the lock will release.

The tumbler should pull right out! Now you can remove the rest of the switch from the dash. Installation is the reverse of this procedure.

Keep fiddling with it if at first you don't succeed...it will work!
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 01, 05:32 PM
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This topic is previously posted, probably in troubleshooting. When you insert the paperclip, you MAY not get the cylinder to release. If it won't turn, back the clip out slowly while turning the cylinder. It will release when it hits a certain point.

LH
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 01, 05:43 PM
 
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Lightbulb

are you trying to remove the tumbler or the ignition switch(the part with wires)?

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 01, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation


Ahhh... that works. I knew that little hole would release it. Just didn't figure on turning the ket to the left even more after it was pressed down. After the tumblers came out with the key, it was easy to remove the bezel which in turn allowed for the ignition to drop down. Now... by trying to follow my eletrical diagram.... (ha that was a joke). I'm trying to make sure that the wires are properly wired to the correct terminals. Obviously the were wrong since they weren't close to the wiring diagram... but my wiring diagram (for the 68) only shows positions, not the names of the terminals (i.e. BATT, IGN, GRD, SOL)

Does anyone have a diagram for the 68 ignition switch that show how to wire it properly?

Thanks for the help on removing everyone, I did a search but in here, next time I'll search all the groups ...


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 01, 06:12 PM
 
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Talking

National Parts Depot has a book of wiring diagrams, NPD part # C-LWD-68. Not sure if you still need to remove the cig lighter, but on my 67 you had to unsrew the housing from the rear, then the bezel and element assembly comes out from the front!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 07, 04:39 PM
 
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Re: How do I remove the ignition switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by choptop View Post
This one is easy...screw the bezel back down snugly,(disconnect the battery)then find and straighten out a paperclip, insert it into the tiny hole on the ignition switch face. Push it in until you feel spring tension and then turn the key 1/4 turn to the left (I think?!)until you feel a click and the lock will release.

The tumbler should pull right out! Now you can remove the rest of the switch from the dash. Installation is the reverse of this procedure.

Keep fiddling with it if at first you don't succeed...it will work!
i spent hours googleing and couldn't find out how to do this till i ran into this thread. this saved me $150 (quoted two hours to have a shop do a 15 min job) ...
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 07, 05:47 PM
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Re: How do I remove the ignition switch?

wow! this thread is 6 years old!

Armando

1967 Chevy Camaro RS/SS
2012 Ford F150 Supercrew FX4
2007 Ford Mustang GT/CS (sold)
2002 F150 Harley Davidson (sold)
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 07, 06:25 PM
 
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Re: How do I remove the ignition switch?

i got a 67 wiring diagram but not 100 percent sure 68 is same but i think it is email me at [email protected] ill send you a diagram
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 07, 09:56 PM
 
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Re: How do I remove the ignition switch?

well i already got my new switch in, no my random stalling..

my car:



- 1968 Chevrolet Camaro. Car was re-done some time ago. Looks to have new quarters. Floors are solid. Frame is solid.
- Motor is a rebuilt 350 Chevy, with less tthan a couple thousand miles. Crane cam and roller rockers, aluminum intake, Mallory distributor, Holley carb, Pete Jackson timing gears.
- Interior is in good condition, doors havee astro ventilation glass. All chrome
- and stainless steel good.
- Original color Grecian Green.
- Automatic, Turbo 350. w/ 2.73 gears. top speed 185mph

-----------------------------------------------------------
Crane Cam #110921
Mechanical Special
Grind Number f-244/3454-2s-6
Valve setting - Intake .026 Exhaust .026 Adjust Hot
Intake lift 518
Ex. Lift 536
Max Rpm 68000

Top Line Pro Cast Heads
2.02 Valve

Crane roller rockers 1.6 Ratio
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 07, 05:21 AM
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Re: How do I remove the ignition switch?

I like the color of your car. What is that? Another question - why did you decide to use 67 tail-lights on a 68 Camaro?

1967 Plain Jane Coupe - and proud of it!
Mountain Green w/Black Bumblebee
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 30th, 07, 04:55 AM
 
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Re: How do I remove the ignition switch?

Original color Grecian Green. it is the way I bought it. It was restored some time ago. at first glance it looks nice. but there is a great deal of tiny bubbled under the pain on the quarters. the guy who sold it to me got this car from someone else a few months ago for trading his sled (sos the story). he put it on ebay because he says his wife doesnt want him having so many cars. I bought the car blindly by just those pics because he lived in michigan and i live in ny and i dont have the money for traveling. anyways i took his word on it. he said it looks like it has new quarters, and no rot. when i got the car it came on a flat bed so immediately looked up from below and was disapointed. first thing i noticed was under the doors its all rot. you touch it and rust falls out. the paint at first glance and at a distance shows the body to be supurb, but especially on the right quarter theres a huge field of tiny little bubles under the paint. i wonder how long before they pop threw im praying its been like that for many years now and will last a few more years before it progresses. it looks like the guy who had it before the guy who sold it to me drove this thing in the winter because the quarters are on the brink of being destroyed. i could put my finger through the back edge of the quarters if i wanted.. in anycase, i had the car inspected yesterday and the mechanic inspecting it says its so wonderful he would pay 12k if he wasnt married. theres no rot anywheres else but i think it needs new quarters, doors to be fixed, and then will need a new paintjob. probably will have to put 10k into it to get the exterior restored again. the interior was restored but it looks real old, maybe 20 - 25 years old, but was kept good taken care of because theres basically no tears. theres mostly more wear on the passengers side that has a couple of tiny wear holes. i think this car was kept in a garage most of its life after restoration. if its been in its current condition as its in now for the past 5 years then i should get some show out of it before those hundreds of rust heads come through, it looks like it has acne up close =[ but they are isolated on the quarters only. bah i just feel i got burned by spending 10k on this because its at the end of its last restoration life i beleive and will need another 10 grand put into it.. yet several mechanics love it as it is so i dont know.. ive seen these 1st gens go for 30 grand after recent restoration, i only wish i had a consistent job instead of being out of work most of the time and being broke because i would love to put all my earnings into this car. perfect frame, motor, 85% of the body, new carpet atleast.. its funny, only person who didnt think this was worth 10grand was my business associate and i think he was just jealous lol.. but im worrying constantly about the rash on its quarters cos once they break out it will be junk till its fixed. no one wants to see rust =[ lol if youall wondering why i typed so much jibbersh now cos im really high hehe.. oh im going post another question too if i can remember oh yes im going make a new thread for it when i do
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