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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 04, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey all,
I've been trying to figure out my headlight switch and here is where i am now;

1.with switch disconnected-signals work o.k. with ignition on.

2.with switch connected, with ignition off, left turn dash indicator on steady, dash lights on constant.

3. with switch connected and ign on left turn signals won't flash, dash lights always on, left turn indicator on dash always on.

It seems if i disconnect the wire at the switch for the turn indicator to go out, i loose my marker and tail lights!!

Help!! I need terminal arrangement and continuity checks!! Thanks!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 04, 04:57 PM
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This is a little tough for me to follow, but if it is your HEADLIGHT switch that is causing you problems, I would replace it, and then if you were still having the problems I would replace the dimmer switch.... actually THAT part is cheaper... and when I replaced it all my headlight issues went away and my right turn signal stopped malfunctioning.

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67 Camaro | 350 | 650 Speed Demon | Dual plane GMPP intake | MSD ignition | Secret Cam (I don't know what it IS!) | 2.02/1.60 Camel Humps ported | Thorley Tri-Y's | 8.5 10 bolt 3.73 | M22
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 04, 05:27 PM
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Mark
 
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On a 69 Light Switch (RS if that matters)


Terminals 3 and 4 have a metal jumper on them and are always continuous

There is an odd terminal without a number on the front right corner that is the ground connection for the dome lights. It has a 20 gauge white wire on it.

Terminal 1 behind the odd one is the main power lead for the lights. (12 Red Wire)

Terminal 2 immediately to the right of 1 is the instrument lamp dimmer circuit output It feeds the lights on the dash cluster that can be dimmed with power from terminals 3/4. It should have a 20 gauge DG wire and run to the 2 amp INST LPS fuse on the fuse panel.

Terminal 3 (and 4) are the power connections for the instument front and rear parking lamps (+12V) and should have two brown wires on them. These two are connected to terminal 2 thru the rheostat for dimming, and to terminal 5 for power when the light is in either the parking light or headlight position.

Terminal 5 is the input to the parking and instrument lights from the fuse panel and should have a 20 guage orange wire wire on it from the 20 amp "Tail Light" fuse.

Terminal 6 is the output to the Headlights and should have an 14 Light blue wire on it going to the dimmer switch.

Terminal 7 seems to be a spare

Terminal 1 and 6 are connected with the switch all the way out.
Terminal 1 and 7 are connected with the switch in the parking lamp position only.
Terminal 3/4 is connected to terminal 5 with the switch in either the headlight or parking light position.
Terminal 2 is connected to terminals 3/4 all the time thru the dimming rheostat.


That's the best I can do with the switch in my hand.

[ 06-19-2004, 05:39 AM: Message edited by: Mark C ]

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 04, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks a TON guys,
That should be a huge help in getting my diag. started. One additional thing though; When i jumper the marker lights to a power supply, the marker lights work, but the right turn indicator lamp also comes on steady (so i think it's that circuit more than the switch - though my switch is acting up also). When i have the headlight switch disconnected, and the key on, the turn signals and they're indicators work properly. Ideas? I'm going to try the terminal values right now!!

Thanks!!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 04, 07:17 PM
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From what I see in the schematic. One filament of the turn lights will light up with the marker. There is a common brown wire between them as well as the licence plate light.

Check to make sure that only one filament is lit in the blinkers when the lights are on. I'll email you the schematic so you can see the config of the wiring.

Brandon J. licence 1NASTY67

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 04, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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thanks for the help guys! I think i've got the signal indicator part of my problem licked. The only remaining problem is that the dash illumination is on at all times. I have the wire to illuminate the dash on terminal #2 of the headlight switch. I believe it is the only one using the dimmer resistor. There seems to be power at all times at terminal 3 (which has the jumper to term.4 ) And continuity between 2 and 3/4 at all times by way of the resistor coil. Thus the dash light are powered at all times through the dimmer. How is it that supposed to work? Do i have the terminals wrong?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 04, 04:39 PM
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I dont know which terms are which by the schematic I sent, but one would think that if you used an ohm meter on the terminals to ground that while turning the knob, you'll locate the correct one when resistance lowers and increases.

Brandon J. licence 1NASTY67

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 04, 03:40 AM
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Mark
 
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5 brings power to the dash and parking lights from the fuse panel, it should not be connected to 3/4 unless the switch is in either the parking or headight position. Keep in mind I took a 69 switch apart to make the list of connections above. May be differences between 67, 68 and 69 switches.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 04, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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all right, here's where i am;
all i need to do now is keep the dash lights from being on all the time. Terminal 2 (out to the dash lights) and 3 (hot at all times) have continuity at all times through the dimmer resistor. Being that the dash lights are powered in this way at all times, and that they are grounded to the chasis at all times, it's no surprise that they're on. What did i miss?!? Should they not be grounded all the time? I'm pretty sure that the power into term.3 should be hot at all times. I checked with a new headlight switch and terminals 2+3 were had continuity all the time through the resistor.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 04, 09:19 AM
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Brandon
 
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K, now find the terminal where the continuity varies when the knob is turned then clicks off opening the terminal and continuity is lost. that would be the term for the dash lights.

Brandon J. licence 1NASTY67

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 04, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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thanks for the reply!!
The only terminal i can find that is connected to the resistor (when the knob is turned) is terminal #2. The problem i don't get is that it always has continuity (and so it's always powered) with terminal 3 (always hot power). No matter what position the pull out part of the switch is in. I must be missing something obvious...
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 04, 10:34 AM
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It may still have continuity, but there may be enough resitance in it to prevent the lights from coming on. You may just have to break down and get a new one. Yours might have shorted out inside.

Brandon J. licence 1NASTY67

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 04, 03:01 PM
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Mark
 
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3/4 should not have power on it except with the headlight switch pulled out to the parking light and headlight position. Terminal 5 which is just to the right and below(looking at the switch terminals up and the ceramic block the resistor coil is mounted in up) is where you hook the orange wire from the "LIGHTS" fuse comes from. The orange wire is always hot.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 21st, 04, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Marc,
I think you may have helped me acheive enlightenment. I don't have time to check it tonight, but i think my problem is in the 3/4 + 5 combo. I knew it would be something stupidly obvious...sometimes i just need the repitition...repitition...to drum it into me! I'll post again soon, but i think i've...er...we've got it!! Thanks!!!!!
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