Battery Drain - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 03, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Hello everyone, I have been trouble shooting a battery drain problem and have come to a wall so to speak. I checked all the circuits by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and then pulling each fuse using a trouble light.
When this did nothing I disconnected the Alternator and the light dimmed a lot but not completely out. I then disconnected the voltage regulator and the light went out. Could I have a short in the front light harness? Any ideas? Could I have a bad diode in the alt?


Thanks,


Dave
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 03, 08:24 AM
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Location: Austin, TX, USA
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Yes. If you disconnected the big red wire to the alternator and the light did not go out, the alternator and diodes are fine. If the Voltage regualtor shows a draw with the key off, then you may have found the problem. Just for kicks, you might try disconnecting the fuse panel plug (under the hood near the stearing column on the firewall) with the regulator hooked up and see if the light is still on. If so, then your diagnosis is correct. There is a bolt in the center of the fuse panel plug. Remove it and the harness will come unplugged.

Sometimes the relay contacts in the regulator will weld shut causing a short or will not charge. You might also examine the horn relay connections to make sure two wires haven't come in contact with one another. The horn relay also serves as a terminal block for main power feeds.

-dnult

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 03, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
When I disconnected the Alt I didn't disconect the red wire I pulled the two wire connector, the the light dimmed. The I pulled the connector off the voltage relay and the light went out. ...the front light harness is only 12 months old.
You should disconnect the red wire to the alternator as a test. The internal rectifier diodes can short - a common discharge problem. I still recommend disconnecting the fuse panel as a test. It seems like new things shouldn't be wrong, but they sometimes are. Could be a QC issue or a mistake on your part. Besides it's an easy test that you can do in 5 minutes or less and isolate the problem to be under the hood at least. Good luck, I think you're hot on the trail. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] It's very likely that you've already got it figured out. It's alwasy good though, to be as sure as you can before spending your hard earned cash on new parts.

-dnult

P.S. I posted your reply here so others with discharge problems (hot topic) can benefit from your experience. [img]graemlins/waving.gif[/img]

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 11th, 03, 02:52 AM
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Dont know much about the electrical systems but I had the same exact problem in my 69 and couldnt trace it anywhere. When I brought it to my mechanic he changed out the voltage regulator. Said they can be tempermental and can cause alot of problems that you may not be able to trace. I replaced it(cheap enough) and havent had a problem with it since. Not saying that this is the problem, but been told the voltage regulator is a common one for this problem. Just my 2 cents not an expert by no means.

TOOFUN
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 12th, 03, 10:08 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
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I had the same thing happen to me on my car. I installed an electric fan on my car. Well the wires fell under the battery. The acid ate the neg. and pos. it kept on blowing the fuse, so I just cut off the fuse. Well it blew my alt. Took the alt to get checked and on place said it was good, another said it was bad. It was working one minute and not working the next. Check the wires near the battery.
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