Why are there two DRGs coming out of the... - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 04, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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I'm reinstalling the center console with some gauges that will be there on a temporary basis. When I someday get the new DSE dash board completed, some of the gauges will move around to their final location. (This DSE is taking MUCH longer than I ever would have guessed.)

I just want two lines for now to support the temp and volt gauges. Gas is still in the dashboard locations and oil is still on the idiot light.

Anyway, I'm looking at the "incorrect" connector hanging down at the front of where the console harness plugs in, and there's the pink wire I need for the voltage gauge. That was easy.

I grab the manual to read up and understand more on the DRG (dark green wire) and I'm lost.

Hoping for an answer that was as easy as the pink wire...

1. There's a green wire at the old connector. I know it's not the light green wire, it certainly is darker than the light green wire, but is it the DRG wire? (Yes, these questions come from old age vision.) Earlier I said "incorrect", meaning, the car was an automatic with no console gauges. The harness had the purple neutral saftey wire, orange and white, pink and this green line running into it, to be plugged into the console harness. Do I infact, by some freak of nature have the DRG I need for the temp gauge sitting right here in front of me?

2. Assuming I don't have the proper green wire. I'm reading the schematic and I see the DRG coming off the temp sensor, through the firewall, off the wire block, past to the next page and up to the idiot light on the dash board, to which it goes back out. Uh? There's DRG20s all over the place.

- Can I reach up there, splice or drag the DRG20 down to the console harness and run it in to the
auto meter temp gauge?

- Does the temp gauge need a single line running in to it and not exit out to another location or in support of another function?

- What other purpose does the DRG20 perform?


Rick

A 47 year old tormented by a green wire. I love this stuff. Well, yeah, I really do!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 04, 05:12 AM
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Rick, put your multimeter on it (OHM or continuity check) and see if it's the same wire going to the temp sensor.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 04, 06:06 AM
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If you have an idiot light temperature sensor:

The DG wire going from the Temeprature Switch to the idiot light is the idiot lights ground connection. The other side of the idiot light has a pink wire on it that supplies 12 volts to the light when the key is in the RUN position. When the engine gets hot the temperature switch closes and grounds the lamp circuit, making the light in the dash go on.

If there are 2 DG wires off the same terminal on the idiot light, (there isn't on my copy) the second one goes to the ignition switch. The ignition switch will ground the circuit when starting the car as a lamp check function.

When you add a Temperature gauge, you need to:

1) replace the Temperature Switch in the drivers side head with a Temperature Sender, make sure you get a sender that matches your gauge.
2) Disconnect the dark Green wire at the back of the idiot light, and reroute it to your new temperature gauge.

You can't run a temperature gauge and an idiot light at the same time, unless you have both a temperature switch and a temperature sender installed in the engine.

Of course your temperature gauge will also need 12V power and ground connections to work. There are no switched 12V power sources inside the console. You will have to bring that into the console as well.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 04, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Joe, thanks Mark.

The green line that I was looking at is LG and not DG. It was the old, center console(automatic) back up lights wire.

How prone is the temp sensor to leaks. Do I give it a single wrap with teflon tape, or wrap the hell out of it when installing?

I've got another question coming up. Seems I've trashed a brand new stereo. Bummer.


Rick.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 04, 11:11 AM
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Don't use teflon tape on the sensor. It has to ground to the block to operate correctly.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 04, 12:31 PM
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Put a little bit of liquid teflon tape on the threads if you are worried about it leaking. It will still give a correct temperature reading with liquid teflon tape.

Mike
69 Camaro Prostreet - purple w/ghost flames , 502 w/ 871 blower


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 04, 03:21 PM
 
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I just put a set of factory gauges and console in my 68 conv.What the guys told you is right but make sur the resitor on the back of the gauge is good.I put 3 sending units in before i figured this out. There is a good pic in ricks catolouge .
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 26th, 04, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Dirkey, I'm using Autometers.

Rick.
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