Thoughts on trunk mounted battery. - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 04, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking of mounting my battery in the trunk and was wondering about where to run the wires? I picked up a Painless trunk kit off of Ebay for 25.00 bucks but I havnt full decided to relocate the battery. What are the pros and cons? Where did you hook the ground to? Any other advice would be appriceated.
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Mike

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 04, 06:25 AM
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Didja read these?

https://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum...;f=10;t=002673

https://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimat...=002419#000005

https://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum...;f=10;t=001069

http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/batpic

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 04, 07:37 AM
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I think if you plan on using your trunk for anything other than a spare and a tool box it's a mistake. It really depends on what your cars intended use is... If all you do is 1/4 mile blasts or you just putt around town to cruise in's and local shows and the look is what you are after it's fine. It's all about trunk space to me. Ragtops even have less space than coupes so that makes my prefrence even easier.

If you do relocate it, it has to be enclosed and vented, you need to build a firewall between the trunk and passanger compartment, with the trunk well in a ragtop that's a big issue! to be track legal you have to have a quick disconnect switch accessable from the back of the car for safety too.

What ever you do don't run the positive back to the front of the car next to and secured to the fuel line. Half the cars I see at shows with trunk mount are done this way. The last one I saw was just an electric fuel pump mounted back bt the tank but the power lead was ty-wraped to the fuel line and right below where the fuel line connected to the pumo was the positive spliced to the pump with a big shiner. The fuel line carries a ground potential and if it leaks at the same time batt and ground are shorted together it makes a great bomb!! You get the idea, a crash is bad enough, a torn wire shorting and a fuel leak and see ya!!

Anyway a rear mounted batt has it's place, I just see a lot of them out of place and not done safely...

...Dennis

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 04, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Dennis,
Thanks I agree with what you wrote, I had not even thought it through far enough. I was hoping to get some good pro/con feedback and what you wrote made my mind up to nix the idea. Thanks Again!!!
Mike Stennes

69 RS/SS vert tourer, LS7, T56, Baer, Hydrooost, GW, etc, etc,
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 04, 02:57 AM
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Here are some pics of my install in my convert...No issues, no venting required due to the using the Optima gel cell...and I really didn't have to sacrifice to much space to do it. Cleans up the engine compartment dramatically...








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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 04, 03:28 AM
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Jeff, your Charter.net site and pictures don't show. I tried it from over at Lateral-G and the links don't work there either.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 04, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CrossRamZ11:
Here are some pics of my install in my convert...No issues, no venting required due to the using the Optima gel cell...and I really didn't have to sacrifice to much space to do it. Cleans up the engine compartment dramatically...
First off I just want to say, VERY, VERY NICE. It's nice to see some good quality work being done out there.
I just wanted to add this also. The Optima gell cell battery CAN vent gas out of them. The little round holes on the top with some type of material in them are there to allow internal pressure to be released should the battery see a higher than normal temperature or from an abnormally high charging voltage.
Granted they are designed to work better than a normal battery but with the work that I've seen in that trunk I would hate to have an alternator regulator malfunction and mess it up.
I do like how the battery looks and I wonder if some type of tubes could be bent and fashioned to go onto those pop off vents and route the gas to the exterior of the car.
I'm just adding some constructive idea's and hope they are taken as such.
Good luck with the rest of the car.
Jim

1974 Spirit Of America Nova (being restored), 1973 Nova Custom, 1968 Chevy II (Garage Find 2012)

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 04, 05:01 AM
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Stenn,

I mounted mine in the trunk on my 69 convertible last year. I did it for the esthetics of a clean engine compartment and a few extra pounds over the rear wheels. I used the Summit relocation kit and mounted it on the right side of the trunk behind the wheel well. I put the positive cable in corrugated sleeving and ran it over the wheel well, into the cockpit, along the passsenger side floorboard. Brought the cable up the side buy the kick panel and did a 90 degree turn towards the drivers side. I used Jeff's idea of using a bulkhead connector under the heater core and terminated the positive cable there. In the engine compartment, I ran a short cable from the other side of the bulkhead connector to the starter, very clean. As for the ground, I grounded to the rear frame rail which turned out to be not enough ground. I then ran a 2/0 ground cable from the rear subfram to the front subframe (all done under the car), that seemed to clear up the grounding issues. I have pics somewhere around here, if I can find them I will post them.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 04, 05:07 AM
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Jeff - you have a beautiful car and the quality that went into the build is very high. I have to ask though, how is your car used? You can't run at a track without an external disconnect for your batt. I also believe your trunk would have to be sealed from the interior with the batt back there. My guess is your car is more of a show toy than anything. That's not a dig coming from me, I find there is a place for all types of cars in this hobby.

Were you able to install the cocktail shaker with the batt where it is? You mentioned it cleans up the engine compartment and from the pics of yours it sure does. I noticed it looks like you did away with the vacuum canister for the RS headlight doors. Did you relocate it or convert to some other method of actuator?

Back to the batt... If you look at your Optima it has to vents built into it and it does vent. It may not vent as much or be as combustible or toxic, I don't really know how it compares though. I do know the Optima batt can leak or boil over, I know someone who will attest to that. Just something to think about, your trunk is detailed so nice...

As I said before, "a rear mounted batt has it's place" each builder needs to look at the cars intended usage though.

...Dennis

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 04, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for the compliments guys, and Dennis, I don't take it as a dig..it is a very fair question, but in reality, while I have taken it to a couple of shows, but I don't consider the car a show toy at all...I built it to drive, and drive hard. I finished the car last winter, and put almost 3000 miles on it over the summer. I take it to the hardware store, grocery store, whenever I have a reason to go somewhere,I take it (with the exception of Malls and other places it would sit for over a few hours). I never had the intention of building a purpose built drag car, nor a bare bones road race car, somewhere in between, with an overall driveability that wouldn't shake my wife to pieces. I wanted a modern performing old car, with street rod type detail, and now that I have all of the bugs shaken out I plan to take it to a few open track events around here (my buddy is in a corvette club that rents a nearby road track)and I look forward to beating the crap out of it!.....Ride 'em, don't hide 'em.

As far as the battery in the trunk goes, I guess if were bracket racing, they officials may look in the trunk, but just on open test and tune days, I have yet to see them even look under the hood...and it wouldn't matter much, I would get shut down after 1 run as Converts get the boot running faster than 13.99 without a rollbar...I prefer turns anyway...

I was not aware that Optimas have the little blow off/vent, I do have a 140 amp alternator (throws 80 amps at idle)but I am not worried about an issue in the least bit, I designed a robust electrical system in the car, bought high quality components...and besides worrying only takes the fun out of driving, that is what insurance is for.

Dennis, No I do not have the shakers in the car anymore, I figured, with the frame tied,they were just added weight, but IF I had wanted to keep them, I could have slid the battery mount forward in-car and still had enough room to install it. I am working on a design for the headlight doors to use a linear actuator...currently, they stay closed...Thanks for the replys guys!
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 04, 05:10 PM
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Obviously not as cool as the stunning example above, I always like to use the ledge to bolt on a 2nd gen battery tray bolted to the floor in 3 places. It just uses the stock clamp here, but straps are easily made to make it legal at most tracks.

The space it takes up is not really too noticeable.

I always use an Optima battery in this location, for known reasons.

Also a Ford starter relay mounted under the dash makes things simple.

This pic is of a 69 that I've just started.


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