Help get it started! Please! (a little long) - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 02, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Lancaster, PA
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Iím finishing up the front half work on my 69. This included removing the entire front sheet metal clip and subframe to allow repair and replacement of body to frame bushing as well as complete detailing and repainting of the frame, firewall, and motor. I also swapped from a P/G to Muncie-20 and replaced brake lines. . I want to test out the function of the rebuilt trans, clutch and Z bar linkage before the sheet metal is in replace so today I fabed a temporary support so I could mount the battery and radiator and fire up the motor. My thought was I could more easily make any necessary corrections if needed without the front sheet metal in the way. I installed the new engine wiring harness and tried to get it to fire off but the starter wouldnít turn. I checked the battery for power and found that to be good and also was able to jump across the starter contacts and get it to turn. Iím fairly sure now that at least some parts of the lighting harness also have to be in place in order for the car to start using the ignition switch.

Can anyone help me figure out which parts of the lighting harness need to be hooked up in order to get it to start or can I temporarily bring a power feed from the battery back to some point so I can use the ignition switch to engage the starter?


[This message has been edited by GDV350SS (edited 09-29-2002).]
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 02, 06:48 PM
David Pozzi
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Location: Central California, USA
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There is a main feed wire from the horn relay to fuse box, Put 12V to that and it might go.

I'd just put it all together the right way, and run it then, but that's me.

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67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 02, 05:55 AM
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me too....

1969, X-44, Export Model, Hugger Orange, Std. Int., BC Rear(soon to be a BT 12 bolt), PDB, GMPP 350HO, M22 Supercase, SSM Lift Bars, AirGap, Holley 750, FlowMaster American Thunder Exhaust, FlowTech Headers
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 02, 06:01 AM
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Location: Oxford Pa.
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Doug...main feed wire from the horn relay is a red 10ga wire....if You temp. wire this up this way, make sure that all other exposed connectors/terminals have a piece of tape or something on them so they will not short to ground....
Like David said, it is probably a good idea to just put the car back together....
Also, if Your neutral safety switch was still hooked up to the PG shifter, You will have to jumper the two purple wires together where it hooked to the original switch...(these wires should be ran to a new switch at the clutch pedal so the clutch has to be pushed in to start, just a safety thingy)...
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 02, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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Location: Lancaster, PA
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Thanks guys!

I know I should just put it all back together before I fire it up.>> BUT I still have another couple of weeks worth of work in detailing the front clip before it's ready to go back on. I'm really anxious to hear it run again after more than 4 months apart.

Thanks again!

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