Voltage Regulator or Starter or ???? please help! - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 01, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Went outside, beautiful day, thought I should take the 67 for a cruise. Went to start it and nothing! Since I bought the car, the generator light does go on at startup and dims but stays on during driving. I replaced the alternator and battery just after purchasing the car. I check the battery and it is strong as can be. This leads me to the starter. I did find it odd that when I try to start it I don't even get a click or anything, it is just dead. I suspect the voltage regulator is very old but could this cause the car to not even click or turn over? Could it just be a dead starter or solenoid? The wiring seems to be in good shape. Anyone's advice or input is greatly appreciated. There is nothing like an electrical problem to drive a man crazy!!!!

Thanks anyone!

Leftcoast


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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 01, 05:40 PM
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You can test your starter if you have a remote starter switch or a good screw driver... Use a multi-meter to see if you have 12 volts at solenoid in the crank position ... I have seen the gen light stay one when guys have switched from an external voltage regulator to alternator with internal regulator ... which do you have ?
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 01, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks,

I have the external voltage regulator. I have not switched to the internal alt. kind. Does Sears sell Multi meters to check voltage? I could use one of those... I am going to replace the voltage regulator and check the voltage at starter. How do u use a screw driver to check like you mentioned?

thanks for your help

Leftcoast


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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 01, 03:31 AM
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Yes, Sears or Radio Shack sell them. A good addition to your tool kit.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 01, 04:54 AM
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Steven
 
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While at Sears go ahead and get the remote starter switch also ... it will allow you to crank engine as you move around or away from the engine compartment.

The screw driver trick is simply laying a screwdriver across the + wire from battery ( at the solenoid, of course ) and contacting the switched wire ... basically completing the circuit without running thru ignition switch ... this will bump the starter. If the ignition switch is in the on position when you do this, the car may start and continue to run ... If the ignition is in the off position, the engine will bump and stop once the screwdriver is removed...Now, this does cause sparks...that's why the remote starter switch is better and safer ...with the remote switch you can stand clear and bump it...
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 01, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Cool guys, thanks for the tip. I will get those items for sure.

If I don't get juice at the starter, that still doesn't tell me much, or does it? There is a little relay or something mounted underneath the external voltage regulator that is extremely rusted and old. Could that relay's rusty connections be the cause?

You guys are a great help

Leftcoast


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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 01, 09:31 PM
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Hehehehe... this sounds all to famillar The box underneath the voltage regulator is the horn relay. It could be part of your problem, however not all of it. Unless your battery is dead. My GEN light was coming on until I replaced both the horn relay and the voltage regulator. If I just did one (either one) it still came on and dimmed until I reved up the engine. I would go down to Kragen (or any other parts store) and replace both of them. I paid $35 total for both the voltage regulator and the horn relay.

I'm still concerned as to why it's not starting, but either way... it's a good place to start especially if your's is all rusted and such.

If you don't mind, could you check for a pink with a black stripe wire arround your voltage regualtor / horn relay? The guy before me had mine in a fine mess and it took me hours to figure it out, but I still have that pink with a black stripe wire and I don't know exactly where it goes. I was supecting the horn relay... but I'm not sure. And the good ole' 68 wiring diagram isn't my best friend

Good luck and thanks!


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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 01, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ohayden,

Sure, I will check that wire and see where it goes and get back to you. My horn relay is extremely rusted. The battery is fine. I haven't tried to remote start her yet (work) so I dont know if the starter solenoid is bad yet.

Thanks for the post, your input has helped a ton!

Leftcoast


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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 01, 05:58 PM
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Pink with Black Stripe #20 gauge wire goes to the #4 terminal on the Horn Relay. This is a wire with a female spade connector that is the closest one to the two terminals with screws on them. It's part of the Key Buzzer circuit.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 01, 06:37 PM
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Mark C, thanks! That's where I thought it went but here's the trick. When I hook it up, it immediately starts to "buzz". The car doors are closed and the key is not in the ignition. Also the GEN stays on even when the car is off. Now, when I put the key to start, it still buzzes until I put it to the accessory position. Any ideas to what is making it do this?

I was looking at the wiring diagram is the pink with a black strip the #20 P,DBL/B?

It also shows a #20 OR with a connection to a #14 B/W, I don't see where this hooks up nor do I have that wire. Is this a problem?



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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 01, 06:56 PM
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Abbreviation is 20 P/B.

The 20 OR is a 20 gauge (small) Orange wire that is the 12 Volt power to the #3 terminal on the Voltage regulator from the battery. That wire is part of the cicuit that feeds the GEN light on the dash. You can jumper it to one of the terminals with a screw (both screws are mounted on a common terminal) on the horn relay regulator. The 14 Black with White stripe is the wire that runs to the Ammeter on the console. (You do have the U17 gauge option don't you) It also gets terminated on one of the terminals with a screw on the horn relay.

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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 01, 06:57 PM
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Lightbulb

Okay... no matter what I try the GEN light stays on even when the power is off. It initally buzzes until I go to the accessory position, then it turns off until I start and shut off the car. If I go to the accessory position and then stop, it stops buzzing. But no matter what, the GEN light stays on.

Here is a picture of the horn relay and how I hooked up the wires, it this correct?



What voltage readings should I get from each wire?

Thanks!


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[This message has been edited by ohayden (edited 08-01-2001).]
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 01, 05:17 AM
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The Generator light can not stay on with the key in the OFF position. The connection to the Horn relay and voltage regulator runs thru a switch in the ignition switch. Sounds like you ignition switch wiring is hosed up. Is this a stock harness or one of the Painless systems? I've heard of some people have had problems with the Painless systems on both the ignition switch and healight switch having wires swapped in the terminals at the switchs on 67 and 68 harnesses.

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 01, 06:27 AM
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Hmmmm... It's the stock wiring harness (not the painless), but I've seen a few other areas where one of the previous owners had wires on wrong. This will be the 3rd area that I've found. So, this wouldn't shock me. I'll look at my ignition tonight. Arrgh, and I thought I had all my eletrical problems solved Once I track this one down, I should be done. Thanks for the help Mark C! I'll post tonight my findings.

Leftcoast07, how's it going?



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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 01, 11:29 AM
 
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Hey leftcoast,

I know this may be too easy a fix, but
I had a similar problem once, car would not start, completely dead, turned out to be the positive battery cable. Cable looked fine, but something was wrong inside of the insulation. A friend told me to use a multi-meter from battery to starter with key in ON position to check it out. Replaced the cable and problem was solved.
Just another idea, hope this helps.

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