Painless Kit - Marker/Parking Light Problem - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 03, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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I just installed a Painless wiring kit on my 69 and have a problem with my marker/parking lights. When I pull the light switch one click the parking lights and marker lights go on. When I pull the light switch all the way the headlights come on but parking/marker lights go out. I read several other posts with this same problem but here is my question. If I tie the marker/parking lights to the headlight switch won't the headlights come on with the light switch pulled out one click? Is this a problem with the painless kit?

Thanks in advance,


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 03, 06:40 AM
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I wish I could help you, but, I am not well versed in electrical (I taught Tim Taylor). I am interested in how your installation was with the Painless system, how well the fuse box fit the original location, instructions, terminal ends, etc. I was at a friends and he was installing one in a modified 62 Impala and I started thinking (I should'nt do that).

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 03, 08:34 AM
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I don't know if your 69 is different, but on my 68 there are two outputs for marker/parking lights from the switch. The Painless kit used one for the rear, which was on at both positions, and the other was used for the front which was only on in the first switch position and went off when the headlights were on.

Sounds like the 69 harness is using this output for both front and rear. (Unless the switch is totally different from my 68.) I changed my painless harness to have both front and rear lights hook to the same output that is on in both postions.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 03, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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I ordered a new switch and will trace the front wires and rear wires to see if I can figure it out. Overall the painless kit was a piece of cake to install. The fuse block fit fine and I like the modern fuses. It took me a while to figure out how to neatly route the the wires up front and in the trunk since I had to make up my own grounds but it turned out pretty good.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 03, 02:47 PM
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I had the same problem with my 68. My Painless manual is #90501 so I don't know if 69 is the same. I wound up jumping wire #929 to #927 behind the headlight switch to get my side lightes to work.
#929 is a brown 14 ga. wire in the Headlight Section "B". It's Wire starting point is Tail Lights and the Section of Starting Point is Tail Section.
#927 is a brown 18 ga. wire in the Headlight Section "B". It's Wire Starting point is Park Lights and the Section of Starting Point is Headlight Section "A". It worked for me so I hope this helps. Good Luck Rhat
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 03, 01:37 AM
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Did you get it to work? Rhat
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 03, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by pwoolford:
I ordered a new switch and will trace the front wires and rear wires to see if I can figure it out. Overall the painless kit was a piece of cake to install. The fuse block fit fine and I like the modern fuses. It took me a while to figure out how to neatly route the the wires up front and in the trunk since I had to make up my own grounds but it turned out pretty good.
How much disassembly of your car was necesssary in order to get everything installed?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 03, 04:36 AM
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I did mine before reassembling on a total frame off rebuild. The wiring took about two days to finish, but once everything was up and running it took some time to track down a few gremlins. (some mine, some theirs) Can't imagine it would be too difficult to install on a completed car. It wasn't totally "painless" but just take your time, pay attention to where everything goes, and it should work out OK. Rhat
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 03, 09:15 AM
 
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I recently installed a new Painless harness in my 68 convertible. It took me about a week of working each night after work until dark (no garage right now), but I also soldered and heat-shrinked every connection (not one crimp in the car [img]smile.gif[/img] . I had to remove the door sill and rear seat back to run the wires to the trunk. I also removed the dash pad to run some of the wires right along the top, but that wasn't entirely necessary.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 03, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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I started installing this kit when the front clip was off my car. The time consuming part for me was soldering and heat shrinking all my connections at the lights. The dash was pretty simple. I have a dash from Covans and the entire dash connects through two pigtails.
I have not had a chance to find the wire to make my front marker lights work while the headlights are on yet. I got side tracked working on my blinkers because of some cheap parts store junk 1157 bulb sockes. I have tried two different 1157 holders and they don't work well at all. Classic Industries and Ricks are both out of the factory style.


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 03, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
The time consuming part for me was soldering and heat shrinking all my connections at the lights.
Sounds like a pain-in-the-A$$ wiring kit. So what you are saying, if you buy a complete wiring kit from painfull, you have to either solder and heat shrink or else use crimp connectors? Would this be something I would want to order if and want the factory original look?

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