Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Saint Louis, Missouri
Most of the time the universal type of kits have undersized wire and not enough wire for some installations.
I have dual batteries in my 73 in the trunk and I ran a 1/0 power wire from the battery positive post to the starter and then ran a 1/0 ground wire from the battery negative post to the engine block.
I used crimped on connectors that were also soldered after being crimped onto the wire.
I also made sure the ground connections were to bare steel on the engine and to the chassis of the car and not on top of painted surfaces.
I have seen some installations where with the trunk mounted battery the negative battery post has a short cable from it to the floor of the car only and the car cranks over slow but if they add a short jumper cable from the firewall to the engine block it cranks over better or faster.
You have to remember that the engine is somewhat electrically isolated from the body of the car as it is on rubber type motor and transmission mounts and the only electrical connection is either through ground straps or through things like the emergency brake cables and shifter linkage.
If your battery is grounded in the trunk and you think that is the problem, take some battery jumper cables and clip them between the engine block and the firewall. If it cranks over faster then either run a large ground cable from the engine to the battery or add some smaller ground straps between the engine and the chassis of the car.
Most stereo shops or welding supply places will either have in stock or can order large gauge wire and the terminals for them and sometimes it's actually cheaper to buy all the parts that you need to allow it to be customized to fit the vehicles needs.
1974 Spirit Of America Nova (being restored), 1973 Nova Custom, 1968 Chevy II (Garage Find 2012)
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