an FYI re electrical gremlins and the fuse panel - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 00, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 156

I have recently had some electrical problems after I accidentally shorted a fuse and replaced it. After market gauges didn't go out but only worked marginally as well as several other strange happenings.
It turns out when I replaced the fuse, I must have disturbed some wires which hooked into the back of the panel. On a hunch I removed the fuse panel. It looked OK until I started pushing and pulling on the connections. The wires and connectors are not soldered. Guages started working and lights became brighter. Now I'm buying the painless fuse block to correct this($88 at Jegs)--wires are still good.

Don't take the fuse box for granted just because it looks Ok from the front

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 00, 08:06 PM
Join Date: Jun 1999
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I have considered doing this also. It would be nice to have an updated fuse block. Let me know when you get it in how it went.

Good Luck. Sean
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 00, 07:43 AM
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Location: Dtown PA
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My fuse box has Green $hit on the back of it, it works , so I am leaving it for now untill I get other things more important done, it looks like corrosion, but it works. and if it aint broke, dont fix it.(yet)

Chris's 67 RS can be seen at

[This message has been edited by Chris Edwards (edited 08-11-2000).]
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 00, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: North Texas
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I agree on not fixing something that's not broke. Everytime I start working on polishing up something that ain't broke, it seems I find something that is! My fuse box is definetly broke. I must admit it's not green but has some rust on all the contacts. flickering lights and hot spots when the wires get moved on the back of the box could be a symptom of resistance heating which may eventually cause a fire. I figured since I'll be putting a moderate stereo into it and restoring some of the interior lights, I'll need to start with a good power distribution block.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 00, 05:15 PM
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Someone else posted on this board about dissatifaction with the painless kit. I can't remember if it was with the harness or the new box. Please post back and let us know how it went. I am going through a lengthy resto myself, I know I will get a new box (if not an entire system)
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 00, 07:59 PM
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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For what it's worth. This forum turned me on to an outfit called M & H electrical fabricators I think they were like I just replaced my entire engine and front lamp harnesses. Connections were right, colors were right, attachment points were in the right place...nice stuff. They also modified the harness to use an internal regulator alternator. Fair price...helpful staff...good quality. That's my .02.
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