Dome light wont turn off, and other glitches ... - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 03, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well gang, I got my dash all installed and counsel too. When I hooked up the Neg. cable, the dome light is on all the time. I did OHM test on the 2 door switches and they check ok, work fine when door opens. Loose connection when compressed.
When I turn the headlight switch all the way to the left to turn on the dome light, it dims just a little bit. When I put VOLT meter to the dome socket it reads 12V then dips to 11V when I turn the switch again or open the door.
I also got the back up lights to work fine with shifter and the starter works so my neutral safety switch seems to work but I get no voltage reading on the other Light Green wire that plugs into the neutral switch next to the back up lights. What does that one go to?
My assembly manual doest explain the purpose of that wire.
Im hoping to get her on the highway this weekend. Hope I didnt mess anything up with wires. I re-wrapped a bunch of them but didnt fiddle with the fuse box or other connectors other than heater connector and that works fine in all 4 speeds. Wipers work in both speeds, headlight hi and low beams work fine.
Anyone have some clues where I should start to look? Dont want to drive around with the dome light on. [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]

Click..is Jim..former owner of a 69RS-LM1 350/255 - 700r
"There will come a time when you believe everything is finished,
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 03, 10:47 PM
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glad to hear things are progressing for you jim. my guess on the dome light is somewhere the circuit is going to ground where it isnt supposed to, from a screw through a wire upon reassmbly, like in sill plate area, or it has gone to ground somewhere else. as i'm sure you are aware, the dome light works on the principle of grounding to turn it on. orange wire is hot always, then when the door pin switches "close" by opening the door, wham, theres your ground. same deal with the switch, when its turned all the way to the left it grounds at the switch. so somewhere the orange wire is grounded. my rs had dome light issues before i re did the interior (no dome lite), and it was actually a bad switch, though i would doubt this is your problem if it worked before. as for the lt green wire, thats just the "switch leg" for your back up lites, (it runs back to the back up lites) it should only have 12 volts when the back up lites are on, when the shifter is in reverse. so if your reverse lights work, all is good there, now you just need to trouble shoot that dome light. good luck with it! [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

Sean

1968 rs with an old school 354" SB2.2 pump gas motor.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 03, 05:23 AM
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Pull the door switches right out, the drivers side should have several wires (2or3) hooked together, had the same problem once, one wire had fallen off the connector and was grounding out all the time,
Reverse switch, pink wire is hot (12 volts) shift to reverse, (switch contacts close) the gree wire is now hot and runs back to the back up lights.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 03, 06:36 AM
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Thought you had under the dash lights also? Are those staying on? Possible one of those are the problem. Unscrew them from the frame and see if that cures it.
The left door switch also controls the key minder. (Makes buzzer sound with keys in). Maybe mixed up wires there?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 03, 09:21 AM
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Nevermind! Ya thought of that already! [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 03, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Wow lots of options to look at now. Thanks guys. I spent the day outside working with a contractor I hired to powerwash the house. Now tonight I can delve into this elec. issue.
I dont have any extra under the dash lights John. The left door button does have 2 wires to it but Ive never heard a buzzer so not sure I have that either.
I will switch those 2 wires and see what happens. I did have that switch apart as one of the wires was loose in its brass terminal. I bought new terminals and replaced both of them at the same time. I will reverse them too.
Then I will start pulling fuses one at a time and try to isolate it.
Will report back on this later this evening after Im to tired to look at it, right now its time for BLT's and tater salad for supper. [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]
Really appreciate the ideas guys.
[img]graemlins/hurray.gif[/img]

Click..is Jim..former owner of a 69RS-LM1 350/255 - 700r
"There will come a time when you believe everything is finished,
That will be the beginning." Louis L'Amour
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 03, 02:06 PM
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Sort of recall you had an extra white wire on your headlight switch. Thought that went to the under dash courtesy lights. Maybe I'm just mixing up people and problems.
The dome light switched on by applying a ground. Disconnect the door wires, unsnap (rotate) the headlight switch knob off, and the dome should be off.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 03, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok here goes, after 2 hours on my back under the dash.. found that one tail light was brighter than the others in 'parking light mode'. That socket I had replaced, and sure enuf I had black and brown reversed, both were so dark I missed it, so switched them to correct color and now all taillights are same brightness in 'parking' or 'stop' or 'blinker'. All side marker lights go on with headlight switch pulled out one notch. Dash lights work, console lights work and all dim with rotation of knob. Also working fine are wipers, headlights in both low and hi beam. Everything is in order EXCEPT...
Back to the Dome now. When I pull the connector off my headlight switch, the dome light goes off. Then I hooked up both wires to door switch and it works right, dome light on with door open, dome light off when door closed. Hook up headlight connector and Dome light is on all the time again. I check voltage and have 12v on the large red wire, but also have 12v on the double white wire terminal (good memory John, that was me) so now Im trying to figure out that white wire status. Should I have 2 wires with 12v on that connector? If not, what might be loading that white wire up? Im thinking its something with that connector but I didnt replace it. Just rewired those 2 white wires that had been melted together and loose in the terminal, put in new brass terminal there and replaced the melted sections of white wire with white wire again.
Ideas now? Thanks for helping me with this, elec. stuff is fun but not my best forte'
Sure hope I can nail this down, dont want a fire like that guy in Wash recently.

Click..is Jim..former owner of a 69RS-LM1 350/255 - 700r
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 03, 06:14 AM
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Jim
Sounds like it's something around the headlight switch or the associated wires.
OK, most of the wires on the headlight switch have nothing to do with the dome light. Don't worry about the red wire. Nothing to do with it. The dome light gets 12 volts from the orange wire all the time. It goes off and on by switching a ground either through the door switches or the headlight switch.
On the headlight switch, if you rotate the knob over until it "locks", the white ground wire shorts to the headlight switch frame or housing. The frame or housing is ground. It gets it's ground from the large eyelet on the wire that you put the switch through when you mounted it. That is the only purpose for the eyelet wire.
Suspect that if you remove the headlight switch, take the eyelet wire off the shaft, the dome light will go out and the door switches will work properly.
Try that and see what happens. Just got called into work and I'll check back later from there.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 03, 09:01 AM
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Just a quick note, The white wires will have 12 volts, even when unplugged from head light switch, 12 volts up orange wire through the bulb filament out the white wire untill it finds a ground, through your test light.
Sounds like your problem is in the switch,
Recall some one having simalar problem, found that when harness plugged onto switch, one terminal missed going onto the spade of the switch.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 03, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the idea Rob, I checked it again and Im getting pretty good at getting that plug onto the switch. I took the switch apart, a little crud but no burn marks and the slides work good. I re-assembled the switch and plugged back in, dome light came on again. Now when I pull the knob to 'parking lights' the dome light goes off. Push the knob back to fully off, dome light comes on again. With headlight knob all the way out, headlights on, no dome light.
I then hooked up the driver door switch, then pulled the knob out and blew the fuse for the tail lights and side marker lights.
I pulled the harness plug apart in the trunk again, check connections there and the plug off that wire loom that goes to the dome light, everything is clean there.
This is so goofy to me. I never had this issue before. Im not sure how the switch could be bad, its parts are clean, brass shiny, slides work smooth and the dimmer works on the dash lights fine too.
Any other ideas guys?

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 03, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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[img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/waving.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/hurray.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

bingo bingo bingoooooooo
Man was that interesting. Got it all working right now. After a lunch break and short walk outside I went back to the wiring diagram in the assembly manual. I stared at that headlight wiring area until I crossed my eyes. Then I noticed the white wires which you guys pointed me too, were tied to a terminal that was 'offset' in a line with the Red and green wires. I looked at my plug and the white dbl wire I had repaired was plugged into a terminal position that was in line with, right next to the red wire. DUH.... I pulled that terminal out and put it back in the singel offset opening and PRESTO everything works perfect. Guess I had not been carefull enough when replacing that terminal last winter.
Thanks again guys, you got me to study the white wires more closely, otherwise Id never have noticed that offset in the plug. WOOOOOHOOOOOOOOO
[img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

Click..is Jim..former owner of a 69RS-LM1 350/255 - 700r
"There will come a time when you believe everything is finished,
That will be the beginning." Louis L'Amour
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 03, 10:37 AM
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The orange wire going to the headlight switch is the same orange wire that goes to the dome light. I think somehow the white and orange are shorting up at the switch.
Try leaving the doors closed.
Remove the dome light bulb.
Pull the headlight switch on 1 notch.
Measure the white wire to ground with a voltmeter. You can get at it at the dome light if you want. Guessing the white wire will go to 12 volts at that time.
Think the problem may be around the eyelet ground wire and or the rheostat portion of the headlight switch. The rheostat may be touching the switch frame.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 03, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Missed my post by a few minutes John but thanks again. You were right, the white wire was the issue, now I know how to help someone else that puts a wire in the wrong hole. Muchas Gratias Pal. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
Take a [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img] out of petty cash on me.
[img]graemlins/hurray.gif[/img]

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 03, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by click:
Muchas Gratias Pal.
De nada
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