Pertronix Ignitor and resistor - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 30th, 04, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, which is it...with or without!? I don't know if it matters, but my '67 Camaro was originally a 6-cylinder. I think my dad took the coil setup from it and used it on the 327. There is a resistor in a holder that is attached to the bracket holding the coil. There is ONE wire coming out of the top of the resistor and going to the positve side of the coil, no other wires from or to the resistor (this in and of itself doesn't make sense to me).

The car starts when the ignition switch is released. Also, the car runs weird. Sometimes its boggy over the entire RPM range, sometimes over part, and sometimes it runs like I'm accustomed to. The engine starts fine. Timing starts at 12 and goes to 32 by 3000 (I haven't checked to see if it continues to advance past 3k yet). I haven't checked the plugs yet. I asked my dad about them and he said they're 45's. I want to go back to 44's since the only thing different from stock is the 801 heads from a 305. Please enlighten me.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 04, 05:34 AM
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Let me get this straight. Car was originally a 6-cylinder, now its a V8 and the coil has been replaced?

I believe it doesn't matter, both are wired the same.

Quote:
There is ONE wire coming out of the top of the resistor and going to the positve side of the coil, no other wires from or to the resistor (this in and of itself doesn't make sense to me).
I believe you're describing a filter, read condenser. If there is ONLY one wire coming out of it, cylindrical, and silver(?) in color, then it is a radio interference filter, removes the ignition noise, sparks from the points opening & closing.

The other wires attached to the coil would be as follows:

Negative side: one black wire to/from distributor.

Positive side: One white/orange/purple wire with cloth wrapped around it and comes from the firewall connector over by the brake master cylinder = this is the IGN supply wire. Another yellow wire from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. This yellow wire is the start ignition voltage providing ignition during the starting event.

Stay with 45's plugs, middle of the road heat range, they will keep themselves clean in city driving.

If a Petronix has been installed, then replacement of the resistive wire is needed. One can do either choice. Take the existing cloth wrapped wire and insulate the coil end and keep it there for future hookup. The other choice is to go back to the firewall connector, cut the wire about three inches from the connector and substitute a length of 14AWG. Solder in place, and insulate against the elements. Or, run a new complete wire from inside the fuse block from an IGN terminal out to the coil and tie off the original wire.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 04, 10:03 AM
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The coil still needs the resistance wire from the ignition switch connected to the (+) terminal (along with the wire from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid); it will eventually fry if it gets a continuous 12 volts. The Pertronix module, however, wants a full 12 volts.

The Pertronix tech guys answer this question about ten times a day; you'd think they'd talk to the guys who write their instructions so they'd make them clearer [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 04, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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John,

I lack experience, so I was having trouble meshing yours and Everett's posts together. Is my interpretation correct?:

I should replace the IGN supply wire from the fuse block to the positive side of the coil with a heavier guage wire. Hmmm, wait a minute. After reading it for about the twelveth time, I guess I still am not quite comprehending this. Your post sounds as if I should leave the two original wires to the postive side of the terminal alone in order to protect the coil. So, then, how is it that I'm able to give the Ignitor 12 volts while still protecting the coil? Does the Ignitor get a continous 12 volts or only at starting? How exactly is this accomplished? I know I'm getting hung up on something trivial, I can just sense it. However, for the life of me, I can't figure it out after reading yours and Everett's posts. TIA.

Also, what is the culprit of the engine starting at the release of the ignition switch with the Ignitor installed? Is it merely that it's not receiving 12 volts? On a side note, I read about 4 volts across the coil with the egine running.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 04, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
what is the culprit of the engine starting at the release of the ignition switch with the Ignitor installed? Is it merely that it's not receiving 12 volts? On a side note, I read about 4 volts across the coil with the egine running.
Answer: Ignition system is not getting 12 volts at START position. Check to see there is a wire, OE yellow in color, from the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid. This terminal supplies 12 volts when starting the engine. This wire is originally connected directly to '+' post of coil. Four volts across the coil is fine.

Quote:
I should replace the IGN supply wire from the fuse block to the positive side of the coil with a heavier guage wire. Hmmm, wait a minute. After reading it for about the twelveth time, I guess I still am not quite comprehending this. Your post sounds as if I should leave the two original wires to the postive side of the terminal alone in order to protect the coil.
Quote:
The Pertronix module, however, wants a full 12 volts.
Answer: If installing a Petronix module, replace the OE ignition supply wire, the one cloth-wrapped, with a larger gauge wire from the fuse box terminal labelled "IGN." The Petronix module now controls the coil, don't worry about coil protection, its been "fixed."
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 04, 03:59 PM
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The coil still needs the same reduced voltage it always got (either through the cloth-covered resistance wire or a ballast resistor). The Pertronix module wants a full 12 volts.

If you already have a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit, power the Pertronix module from the ignition switch side of it (12 volts) and leave the existing wire you have now from the other end of the resistor (reduced voltage) to the (+) coil terminal.

If you don't have a ballast resistor and have only the original cloth-covered resistance wire feeding the coil (+) terminal, power the Pertronix module with a new wire through the firewall to the "Ign" cavity in the fuse block.

In either case, you need the yellow wire from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid to the (+) terminal on the coil so the coil gets power when you're cranking.

The coil wants reduced voltage, the Pertronix module wants a full 12 volts, and if the yellow wire isn't connected to the coil, it won't start until you release the key. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 04, 01:22 AM
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Disregard what I have stated, I erred. Follow JohnZ's instructions. I'll watch.

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