Few quick wiring questions... - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old May 27th, 03, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 189

I just installed a new Factory Fit wiring harness in my 69 convertible 327. It worked great. I have a couple of questions.
a) The starter is installed. Which of the two small wires goes to which terminal. Let's call them the oil pan terminal for the one on that side and the outside terminal for the exhaust side.
b) What about the coil. I assume that the harness goes to the positive coil, and then the negative coil to the distributor. Am I right?
c) Finally, there is a mysterious wire that I disconnected from the positive battery terminal. I made a note that it attaches to the body (rad wall) behind the battery with another wire. Is this right? Surely it is something and not a ground. Is it really necessary?
Let me know. Thx.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old May 27th, 03, 12:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277

As for the starter, it's been a while since I looked at one, but only recall one small terminal on the starter solenoid to engage. I'll defer that one to someone else.

You are correct about the coil. Ground to ignition module or points. Positive goes to 12V in the case of electronic iginition, or resistor wire / or ballast resistor in the case of breaker points. If your using an igintion that requires the resistor wire or ballast resistor, there should also be a wire from the positive terminal that goes to the starter so the ignition gets a full 12V when cranking.

The other wire you speak of goes to a terminal block behind the battery on the firewall (+12V). It only has one connection. This feeds power to the rest of the vehicle via the horn relay and also connects to the charging circuit.


68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old May 27th, 03, 05:00 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Northridge, Ca
Posts: 662

The oil pan side of the starter solenoid goes to the Nuetral Safety switch (Purple wire), the other small terminal is optional...you can run a length of wire to the positive side of the coil...at startup the coil will receive a full 12 volts instead of 9 volts if you have a ballast resistor in. I have the ballast resistor and am not running the wire from the starter to coil...seems to work OK for me.

The extra length of Positive wire from the battery goes to a junction block behind the battery...from there, the power goes to the horn relay and onto the fuse box. I just installed a Painless harness in my 69 convertible. They actually put the horn relay on the fuse box itself. So with the horn relay gone and an internally regulated alternator, I have really cleaned up the radiator support.

Good Luck

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old May 28th, 03, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 189

In the Factory Fit there exists a wire that I connected to this "junction box". I kind of remember a screw right on the rad support. Maybe there is a junction box of some kind? I guess this positive feed is then required and goes to this connection. But if it is directly to the rad support, would this not create a short?
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old May 28th, 03, 11:31 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Grand Ledge, MI 48837 USA
Posts: 366

There should be a plastic block on the rad support (about 1" square) that the positive wires connect on. Don't connect them directly to the rad support.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old May 29th, 03, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 189

Yeah, I hauled out the battery last night and it all makes sense now. And when I looked at my new, exact replica battery cables I noticed that the terminal block wire is attached. Also, the body ground on the negative. This makes it all neat and clean. I highly recommend this investment to clean up that corner of the engine compartment.
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