Still Having Electrical Problems - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 03, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
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Guys,
I posted a while back that my '67 Camaro will only show 11.62 volts whether the engine is running or not. The following is what I've done and maybe you guys can tell me what to do next.
I do not have a battery drain. I ran a test light in parallel with the positive post on the battery and the light does not come on. I replaced the alternator, voltage regulator and battery (900cca). Check voltage from all three and still have 11.62 volts comming from each. When I start the engine the voltmeter also shows approx. 11.5 volts. I have checked all engine and body ground straps. Also check ground wire from negative battery post to fender. All were good. As best that I can remember, this started after I replaced the in-dash fuel gauge with a in-dash tach. I also replaced the printed circuit board at the same time. I did notice that when ever I turn my signal lights on, the neddle on the voltgauge jumps between 10.5 - 11.5 volts with the binker. Any further ideas would be appreciated.

Gary<BR>1967 Camaro SS/RS 396-375 4sp.<P> <A HREF="http://community.webshots.com/user/amike95" TARGET=_blank>http://community.webshots.com/user/amike95</A>
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 03, 12:12 PM
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Location: Temple City, Ca
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Borrowed this from a guy named Peter. I like it better than what I usually write. Since F and 2 also run to the alternator, the voltage there should be the same as the regulator. Give this a try and see what you get. The regulator is grounded I assume.

The brown #4 wire is connected through the light bulb to 12V whenever the key is in the ON position. The other end goes through a set of points in the regulator and then out the F terminal to the field winding in the alternator. So some current begins flowing in the field winding from this connection. The little bit of current flowing produces a weak magnet field in the alternator and also lights the bulb.
When you then start the car, the weak magnetic field from above begins rotating which makes the alternator producing a little bit of voltage. This voltage is fed from the alternator to the regulator on the white #2 wire. This wire connects to a coil in the regulator and turns on a contact when the voltage goes above 3.2V.
Once the contact turns on in the regulator the #3 and #4 terminals are connected together. Terminal #3 is battery power so this puts battery power on both sides of the bulb and turns it off. This means the brown #4 wire should go to +12V. Also, this connects the field terminal right to battery power but still going through the contact.
When the battery voltage goes above a set level, the F terminal is disconnected from the battery power by the contact I kept mentioning. Then the voltage drops and the contact close again. This on-off cycling happens rapidly and is how the voltage gets regulated.
From the above (KOEO = key on engine off and KOER = key on engine running).
F terminal - KOEO = #4 slight voltage KOER = 9-12V typically
#2 terminal - KOEO = 0V KOER = &gt;3.2V
#3 terminal - KOEO = 12V KOER = 12V
#4 terminal - KOEO = F slight voltage KOER = 12V
By 12V above I mean battery voltage, which may be 12V when engine is off but should be 14V when engine is running.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 03, 12:29 PM
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Since you replaced your gas guage with a tach can we assume you also added the U17 gauge package? If you did, did you pull the GEN light bulb out of the socket in the dash? If so put it back, there is a difference in the under dash wiring between a U17 car and a non-U17 car that affects the voltage regulator circuit. If you pull the GEN light out of the socket in a car that did not originally come with gauges the alternator will not charge properly. The light bulb is in the charging circuit that controls the voltage to the field windings in the alternator, which in turn affects the voltage output of the alternator.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 03, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gseay:
Guys,

I do not have a battery drain. I ran a test light in parallel with the positive post on the battery and the light does not come on.
To test drain, you want to place the test lamp in series with a cable. Disconnect the cable and install it between the battery post and cable clamp.

I am not sure where you were measuring your 11.62 volts. I guess actually I'm wondering how - as in, where were you grounded.

What do you get if you put the meter accross the battery terminals (not the clamps). Do you still see 11.62? If you were grounded to the frame, engine, or chasis, you may have a ground problem. If you measured 11.62 directly accross the battery terminals with the engine running, then I'm stumped given you replaced the stuff you have. If not a ground problem, then something must be open in the wiring harness.

Good info John (and Peter). Those old regulators aren't a mystery to me, but I've never taken the time to figure out just how they work. I'll be referencing this thread again.

-dnult

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 03, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark C:
Since you replaced your gas guage with a tach can we assume you also added the U17 gauge package? If you did, did you pull the GEN light bulb out of the socket in the dash? If so put it back, there is a difference in the under dash wiring between a U17 car and a non-U17 car that affects the voltage regulator circuit. If you pull the GEN light out of the socket in a car that did not originally come with gauges the alternator will not charge properly. The light bulb is in the charging circuit that controls the voltage to the field windings in the alternator, which in turn affects the voltage output of the alternator.
Mark,
No, I didn't replace with the u17 gauge package. I have autometer (voltmeter, oil pressure and water temperature) gauges mounted under the dash above the console. Additionally, if I remember correctly, with the aftermarket in-dash tach there was place to put the alt. light back in to. I'll have to check and make sure.

Thanks,
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