Help-blowing fuse. - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 02, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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I have been posting in the main board under URGENT. So, I thought I would ask in here.

It started with my ignition not working after connecting a jumper from the distrib to the battery. Anyway I change the switch and it starts just fine. But, when I shut it off it blows the 50amp fuse. I guess what ever it is is what burned up the ignition switch.

Im guessing I have a short somewhere. I dont know where or how to check it. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Tony

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obnoxious 67 camaro under construction. TH350/383 stroker w/ aluminum Edlebroc RPM heads,cam, and carb. Guldstrand mod, Hotchkis 600lbs springs. Next Hotchkis swaybar and disc brakes.This is a "Daily Driver" that still needs A LOT of work.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 02, 12:21 PM
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Tony, Get an ohm meter and Isolate the ing. wires then check them to ground, if you get a reading than thats the wire thats grounded, and should be replaced. If your meter reads clean, you might try the same thing with a megger. (this will also check your wires only with a load). sounds like you have a dead short that will blow a 50 amp fuse.... I don't know if this will help but good luck Mike
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 02, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Should I pull each wire and check for ohms?

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 02, 12:47 PM
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Tony, I am not and expert with DC, but yes you are checking for contunity. Isolate each wire ,to make sure they are not grounding out against anything metal, remember you are blowing a 50 amp fuse, must be something going directly to ground to do this.such as, bad insulation, pinched wire, burnt coil somewhere in the circut, etc...Mike
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 24th, 02, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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I pulled all the wires off the ignition and tested them. There is zero resistance for each one. Am I understanding that I should get some resistance or is this all wrong?

Please help,

Tony

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obnoxious 67 camaro under construction. TH350/383 stroker w/ aluminum Edlebroc RPM heads,cam, and carb. Guldstrand mod, Hotchkis 600lbs springs. Next Hotchkis swaybar and disc brakes.This is a "Daily Driver" that still needs A LOT of work.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 24th, 02, 06:10 AM
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This 50 amp fuse you keep blowing must be a Painless item. The standard fuse block doesn't have anything that high. I don't know what it is fusing. Maybe the inputs to the ignition switch and headlights. Does the fuse blow if you leave the ignition switch connector off?
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 24th, 02, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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Ive blown 3 fuses now and dont have anymore ill have to wait until I can go to the parts store.

Do you mean leaving the wire off of the ignition switch that goes to the ignition?

Tony
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 24th, 02, 07:04 AM
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One of my peeves is to see the same thread in 2 different places. Kinda tough for everyone to contribute. Anyway. I assume that the 50 amp fuse is protesting the input side of both the ignition switch and the headlight switch. Harder to see when aftermarket wiring is used. Originally it was a red wire. If that's the case, disconnect the red wire or the entire ignition switch connector and see if that stops the fuse from popping.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 25th, 02, 03:48 AM
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Does the harness have a connector with all of the terminals in it for the ign switch, or, are You having to connect each individual terminal to each terminal on the back of the switch?

What I am trying to get at is that there is a terminal on the ign switch that goes to ground when the switch is turned to the off position. That ground circut is for the key buzzer and is on a 68 but I'm not sure about a 67. Maybe someone can clarify this. Or maybe somebody sold You a 68 switch???

I'm just kinda wondering why the fuse is blowing after the key is turned to off and I'm thinking that there is something wrong with the way the switch is wired. I'd verify that that is correct before I went anywhere else if it was mine.

Good Luck and as always just repost if You cannot find it. pics, schematics and any addl info is always good.

And like John said, keep the questions in one spot.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 02, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry about the different post. I thought maybe someone might not read both sections so I didn't want to miss anyone who could help. Ill stay in the elec.

Anyway, my ignition switch is the kind where you hook up each individual wire onto it not a harness. The 5 wires are for: batt, sol, ground, acc, ign.

Im wondering maybe the new switch is bad?

Tony

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obnoxious 67 camaro under construction. TH350/383 stroker w/ aluminum Edlebroc RPM heads,cam, and carb. Guldstrand mod, Hotchkis 600lbs springs. Next Hotchkis swaybar and disc brakes.This is a "Daily Driver" that still needs A LOT of work.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 02, 06:45 AM
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What did you tie to the switch "GND" terminal? That terminal does not go to ground. The only thing that goes there is the wires for the TEMP idiot light. Usually a green wire.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 02, 05:54 PM
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That's strange that the fuse blows when you shut it off. I've seen starters try to pull 100 and some amps through alternate grounds, but that's a starting issue.

Don't feed it fuses. If anything install a test light where the fuse would normally go. Try disconnecting the alternator. I'm not sure how the painless system is configured, but shorted diodes in the alternator have been known to do weird things like this. The diodes basically short the battery to ground when the system isn't charging.

Anyway, the test light should give you a visual indication as you start disconnecting various circuits.

-dnult

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 02, 05:44 AM
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First thing is to setup a test light. Remove the fuse and connect a 12vdc light in its place. have extra long leads so you can see it outside of the car. When you disconnect the shorted wire, the light will go out or go very dim. You have to have a major short to take out a 50amp fuse If its a smaller wire, the wire will generally smoke before a 50 blows. I would check the + junction behind the battery or the battery cable to the starter.



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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 02, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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What do you mean +junction behind battery

Tony
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 02, 02:11 AM
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I'm not sure if you years relays can be popped open like my old 71 t-birds but if so clean them out and if they are junky get new ones. Had a relay go bozo and ace some fuzes one hot sunny day. I didn't have the a/c functioning then I lost power windows thanks to a blitzing relay. The alternator is a lousy thing to do to good cutomers. Like mentioned the diodes going flaky will get you. Don't depend on a volt meter set to DC to pick up on AC coming out of alternator. You'll read battery voltage when the alternator is pumping AC out. The diodes are intended to staighten out the alternating current to only go into a positive and negative poles arrangement of DC. In other words the diodes go bad you'll be pumping positive one way then negative to the same wire. Ah heck it does it to all the wires it's connected to in that condition. Worse yet the voltmeter reads 12 or better volts and sears will sell you a new battey after the fancy machine says your battery is bad not holding amps. I guess if you can disconnect the alternator wires and retry blowing another dollar or so. Could be your starter relay or ignition switch with bad contacts. If it doesn't happen when cycling from off to on and back without starting "maybe" it's more prone to be a missalligned and sloppy relay mech that will ground to the case or that alernator dumping charges from it and the battery. You can get diode stacks and brushs cheap cheap instead of buying an alternator if that's the problem.
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