Ignition Coil keeps burning out - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 03, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hi my problem is this i have an 89 camaro rs 2.8 v6. It first went when i was out driving in the dry i stopped at a T junction as i stopped it back fired and stopped it wouldn't restart. I had a pick up truck come and take it to the work shop where the mechanic there thought the problem lied with the igniton coil so he replaced it and it was fine for 2 days when it done it again so i thought that maybe the part he put in was faulty so i put another one in but yesterday exactly 2 days again it burnt out backfiring, the weird thing is it seems to run ok when its cold but when it get hot it just backfires does anyone know what the problem could be because i have run out or ideas cheers. Please Email me [email protected]
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 03, 01:40 PM
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Sounds like you're not running a balast resistor or resistor wire. I presume you're running a breaker point ignition.

Usually there is a resistor wire running from the main wiring harness connector on the firwall to the coil. A lot of people who run HEI ignitions, will cut this resistor wire and splice on a length of plain ol' copper. The copper wire delivers a full 12 volts for HEI ignitions.

The resistor wire or ballast resistor reduces the running coil voltage to about 9 volts. But, breaker point ignition systems (on Camaros at least) have another wire connected to the positive terminal of the coil which connects to the starter solenoid wire. The second wire provides 12 volts to the breaker point coil only during cranking to give a hotter spark.

Actually the starter connection also gave the coil about 9 volts because the electrical system voltage drops to about 9 - 10 volts during cranking anyway. But thats beside the point.

If you are running breaker points, use the information above to figure out what you have. The firewall connector is relatively easy to disconnect -- there is a 3/8" (or is it 7/16") bolt in the middle. If you use a digital volt meter, you should be able to measure the resistance between the firewall connector and the + coil. Last time I checked one, the resistance was about 2 ohms.

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 03, 02:42 PM
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How is the coil wire that goes to the cap?

Also check the cap and rotor. Voltage could be burning all the way through the rotor to distributor shaft.

Don ~ TC Member #15 ~
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 03, 09:55 AM
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Try unplugging the TACH wire into the HEI if you have it plugged it.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 03, 04:24 PM
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I'm sitting here reading responses and I'm thinking to myself, "these guys seem to think he has an HEI setup". Duh! For whatever reason the fact that it was an 89 missed my eye. Disreguard my disertation on resistor wires and such. That's 1st gen stuff.

[img]redface.gif[/img]

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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