Temp gauge - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 1st, 04, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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I've been not wanting to fuss with this, but since my console is coming out for a trans swap, I might as well.
Problem is the console temp guage does not work. There is voltage at the sensor lead, and the sensor itself (proper guage sensor) was verified against a new part with a ohm meter.
The needle is pegged, it cannot be seen.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 1st, 04, 01:17 PM
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Pegged which way, high or low?

Does it instantly peg, or sweep across the gauge face fairly slowly?

Do you have the 86 ohm resistor on the back of the guage, or is it built in? If it's built into the gauge, you can't use the external one as well.

Is the gauge mounting plate grounded?

If you disconnect the sender, does the gauge peg (fairly slowly) low?

If you short the sender lead to ground, does it peg (fairly slowly)high?

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 1st, 04, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark C:
Pegged which way, high or low?

Does it instantly peg, or sweep across the gauge face fairly slowly?

Do you have the 86 ohm resistor on the back of the guage, or is it built in? If it's built into the gauge, you can't use the external one as well.

Is the gauge mounting plate grounded?

If you disconnect the sender, does the gauge peg (fairly slowly) low?

If you short the sender lead to ground, does it peg (fairly slowly)high?
I seem to remember it pegged low, slowly. The bummer is that the gauge worked perfecly before I took the console out to install my automatic, I don't remember if I grounded it right. Do the symptoms sound like grounding?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 1st, 04, 05:01 PM
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If it pegs low slowly it indicates and open circuit to the temperature sender. Could be a loose connection in the connector at the front of the console, in the bulkhead connector, at the gauge or at the sender.

Because it's doing it slowly that would indicate that the resistor is inplace and the guage is grounded. Try grounding the lead to the block to see if you can make the gauge move upscale. If not your problem is definately somewhere in the wire to the sender.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 2nd, 04, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark C:
If it pegs low slowly it indicates and open circuit to the temperature sender. Could be a loose connection in the connector at the front of the console, in the bulkhead connector, at the gauge or at the sender.

Because it's doing it slowly that would indicate that the resistor is inplace and the guage is grounded. Try grounding the lead to the block to see if you can make the gauge move upscale. If not your problem is definately somewhere in the wire to the sender.
I tried that, the gauge did not move. There is power at the sensor lead. [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img] How would it act if the plate was not grounded?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 2nd, 04, 05:07 AM
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Gauge wouldn't move one way or the other. There are two windings in the temperature (and gas) gauge, one wound clockwise and one wound counter clockwise. One moves the needle upscale (the one with the sender connected to it), one moves it downscale (the one with the balancing resistor connected to it), both use the same grounding point so if the gauge wasn't grounded the needle would just hang in one position and it wouldn't move.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 3rd, 04, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark C:
Gauge wouldn't move one way or the other. There are two windings in the temperature (and gas) gauge, one wound clockwise and one wound counter clockwise. One moves the needle upscale (the one with the sender connected to it), one moves it downscale (the one with the balancing resistor connected to it), both use the same grounding point so if the gauge wasn't grounded the needle would just hang in one position and it wouldn't move.
That makes sense, the sender and the resistor are kind of pulling against each other to move the gauge one way or another? Is it safe to say that assuming that gravity pulled the needle over to its current locatation, and that I have power at the sensor lead that I'm probably looking at a grounding problem?
Thanks for your help.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 3rd, 04, 06:27 PM
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Could be if the needle just drifted that way due to vibration. I got the impression that the needle purposefully moved that way when you turned the key on. Just pop the cover of the gauge cluster and move the needle with your finger to the center of the gauge, then turn the key on. If you have 12V at the sender and the gauge doesn't move to cold with the key on then it's either a grounding problem, or the gauge itself is toast.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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