Won't turn off when I turn it off - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 00, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the deal,

Of coarse, the car ran fine last weekend. Sometime between then and Friday, the Boogie Man came and decided to have some fun with my car.

The main problem is that when I turn the key to the off position when the car is in park, it will not turn off. It is like I never even turned the key off.

The car will shut off if I turn the key to the off position when it is in Reverse. Unfortunately even though the engine is off, the GEN light and the light on my tach are still lit. I have had to disconnect the battery terminal to keep it from draining the battery.

My first thought was the that the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to test it? The car starts just fine though.

By the way, the regulator does have a diode installed in line for the number 4 terminal. It is the one that came with the Crane Hi-6. I checked to make sure it was not broken. I did notice that the wire butt joints where the diode is connected were pretty hot to the touch. Should I install a new diode?

Rick
68 RS Convertible
HEI, Crane Hi-6

[This message has been edited by rickmack (edited 08-27-2000).]
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 00, 04:11 AM
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Rick,

You just have to keep on going and going and going....

Find some electronic contact cleaner. It's in a spray can. Give it a squirt. sounds light it's time for a new ign sw though the cleaner may prolong it's life just a bit...

The cleaner should be non conductive but disconnect the batt just to be safe.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 00, 04:25 AM
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I hate the Boogie Man, he always messes with my stuff too.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 00, 01:48 PM
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One thing to check. The switch itself may be down on the steering column, (not sure on a 68) a rod runs from the key to the switch. The switch itself may have worked loose and not be in the right position. Or maybe the rod has bent a little. Either way this could explain the deal here.
Some switches have multiple contacts for ign., acc. and charging.

[This message has been edited by tom3 (edited 08-28-2000).]
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 00, 07:33 PM
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Hey Guys,
I'm going for the diode, turn the key off and unplug the regulator, or the two wire conector on the alternator and see if it dies if it does replace the diode.

Larry
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 00, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies, I am trying to make time to work on it again soon. Being in sales, the end of the month push has me working late. $$$ I will let you guys know what the problem is when I fix it.
Rick
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 21st, 00, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally had some time today to work on the car. Unfortunatly, the problem has not been fixed. I installed a new ignition switch and key mech. and a new diode inline on the 4th terminal of the regulator. The two areas I thought may be the problems were deadends. Where do I go from here?
Rick
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 21st, 00, 06:21 PM
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I would think that since the car continues to run that something is still grounded or shorted to ground. good time to use the old continuity tester on the electrical system to find the bad circuit.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 22nd, 00, 04:30 PM
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Hi Rick,

It is my guess that there is some kind of back feed from the alternator, how ever there is one other thing that you need to check first. Your car came with points type ign, in this style system there is a yellow wire on the small starter terminal that is the farther one from the block. This wire is called the shunt wire, it is designed to give 12V to the coil during cranking. When electronic IGN'S are installed this wire is no longer needed, but here may be the problem if it is still there hooked up or not if it comes in contact with the batt hot it will back feed 12V to ign key on or off.

If this is not the problem then start the engine turn the key off, and then unplug the voltage regulator, if it dies recheck the diode as it can only go one way and work.

These are the two things that will make the engine run on. Have you changed the alternator lately,to one wire or internal reg?

Let us here the results.
Larry
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 00, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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WORK, WORK, WORK, WORK, WORK,
Thanks for the suggestions, I will let you know what I find when I have time to work on it again in two-three weeks.
Thanks
Rick
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 4th, 00, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Solved!!!!
It turns out that it was the red wire that connects the alternator to the regulator, etc. I had a crimp-type connector splicing new wire to old wire. The connection had somehow burned or over heated, the plastic was melted in and around the splice. I cut out the bad portion and soldered the connection together ( I will make it one complete wire without a splice asap). Works great now! Thanks for the replies.
Rick

[This message has been edited by rickmack (edited 11-04-2000).]
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 00, 10:46 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rickmack:
Here's the deal,

Of coarse, the car ran fine last weekend. Sometime between then and Friday, the Boogie Man came and decided to have some fun with my car.

The main problem is that when I turn the key to the off position when the car is in park, it will not turn off. It is like I never even turned the key off.

The car will shut off if I turn the key to the off position when it is in Reverse. Unfortunately even though the engine is off, the GEN light and the light on my tach are still lit. I have had to disconnect the battery terminal to keep it from draining the battery.

My first thought was the that the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to test it? The car starts just fine though.

By the way, the regulator does have a diode installed in line for the number 4 terminal. It is the one that came with the Crane Hi-6. I checked to make sure it was not broken. I did notice that the wire butt joints where the diode is connected were pretty hot to the touch. Should I install a new diode?

Rick
68 RS Convertible
HEI, Crane Hi-6

[This message has been edited by rickmack (edited 08-27-2000).]
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have a crane hi-6 and I didint have to install the diode,which I think is for run on conditions, but I am running the stock point type dist. It is in my 69 z/28 302 and I havent fouled a plug since installation
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