To many positive leads on battery, how to clean up?? - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 02, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Newark, Ohio
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How do people wire all the electronics up to there cars (show cars) and not have all the leads coming off the positive terminal on the battery? I have 3 leads coming off the positive battery terminal and this does not include the thick wire to the starter. I have my MSD box, electric fans and the jumper wire going to the horn relay or voltage regulator all hooked up the battery. It doesn't look to clean and I am not sure how safe it is either. Any suggestions on how people run all these wires? I see cars at shows and cruise-ins look so clean under the hood but they have all the electronics hooked up. What gives? Thanks, Erik

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68 Camaro RS, Built 355, 274 Comp Cam, Sportsman II Heads 200 c.c. 2.02. Ported to Performer RPM Manifold and 1.75" Headers, 1.5 Roller Rockers, 650 Holley, Steel Crank, 12 Bolt posi with 4.11 Gears, TH350 tranny w/ shift kit.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 02, 05:38 AM
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Location: MANASQUAN NJ. U.S.A.
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The best way for me was to install another fuse strip up under the dash.
That way you can add extra stuff,and fuse it too for safety,and it keeps all the wire up and out of the way,but still giving access to it.The trick is to find a spot for it,I mounted on the upper passenger side.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 02, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Was this a direct terminal from the battery? I have some extra terminals for ignition on my fuse panel but none for battery. How do I wire it and be safe about it.
Later, Erik

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68 Camaro RS, Built 355, 274 Comp Cam, Sportsman II Heads 200 c.c. 2.02. Ported to Performer RPM Manifold and 1.75" Headers, 1.5 Roller Rockers, 650 Holley, Steel Crank, 12 Bolt posi with 4.11 Gears, TH350 tranny w/ shift kit.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 02, 06:34 AM
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The 70's and 80's Chevy pickups had an accessory terminal block mounted on the firewall that was fed by a fusible link connected to the battery terminal on the starter. You should be able to find one at a boneyard. Take the whole thing including the fusible link and mount it someplace not so noticeable.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 02, 08:23 AM
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
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Here is what I do on my car:

I have the battery mounted in the stock location, and run an 8 guage wire straight to my big amp in the trunk. I then have a 10 guage wire running to a small fuse strip that has 6 or 7 spaces in it. I run my small amp, alarm, neon amp rack/trunk lights, my laser alarm light, and a couple of other things.

My only other lead from the battery is directly to the starter. You can really make it clean using terminators. Check www.cruthcfield.com . They have all the wiring stuff you could ever need. Another thing to consider is the draw on your battery. If I turn my car off, the stereo will DRAIN the battery in 5 minutes or less. That is with a Diehard Gold hi amp battery. Eventually I will go with a yellow top optima in the trunk and a relay to the main battery to allow the batteries to charge each other if I get in a jam. It will also make running the wiring very simple. Hope this helped

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67 Pro-touring Camaro-327, 9:1, Comp XE268 Cam, Perf. RPM Intake. 750 Holley, Sportsman II Heads, Ceramic coated headers, 700R4 trans, 17" Amer. Racing TT2's, 12" disc brakes, custom stereo, black with white stripes, cowl ind. hood.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 02, 03:11 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 1 2RUN:
The 70's and 80's Chevy pickups had an accessory terminal block mounted on the firewall that was fed by a fusible link <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'll second that. Also, if you need accessory or ignition power, install a relay near the block and feed the relay coil with IGN / ACC power from the fuse block. The contacts of the relay will feed high current power to accessories. I've also used the large style tab fuses (like modern cars have) in the 30 - 60AMP variety to fuse various high current circuits. You can buy weather resistant sockets for the fuses and tuck them up and out of the way. Just fuse them appropriatly for the load.

-dnult

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 02, 04:30 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Orange, VA USA
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Go to a salvage yard and get into the engine compartment on a 3rd gen machine. There is a battery cable from the positive to a "power-block" that is mounted on the frame rail. This block as two bolt type terminals where you can connect a lot of power leads.

Mount the power-block "out of sight" and run your leads to it.

Also ... that same 3rd gen "donor" car will have a half-dozen or more 30 amp Potter-Braumfield relays in the wiring harness. They are all the 30 amp, regardless of wire size to them. Some have 18ga and 20ga, some may have 10ga wires on the relay ... they are all the same part number.

Grab some of these little jewels; they won't charge you hardly anything for them. My guy lets me get all I want for nothing. He can't sell them anyway.

Use one of these relays, go to NAPA or the likes and get an in-line circuit breaker for 20, 25, or 30 amps ... whatever you need and then run the power lead to the circuit breaker to the relay contact to your unit. Now you can control the relay with a 20ga wire from any ign sourced switch on your dash or instrument panel.

Check my trunk mounted relay for fuel pump at http://65.216.168.148/fuel01.htm

Have fun with it.
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