Fan Motor - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 04, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Does anybody know if there is a resitor in the fan blower line .I put a new altenator on with a internal regulator.I also put in a factoy console with the gauge package.I had to change my heater core because of a leak.Now with everthing hooked up when i turn on the fan the battery gauge goes all the way over to the right.I have to pull the fan motor out and have it checked but i was wondering if there is a resitor in the line i know there is one on the back of the gauge
Thanks Dirks SS Conv
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Apr 25th, 04, 04:30 AM
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Mark
 
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Location: Shrewsbury, MA, USA
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There are 2 resistors in series with the blower motor fan on a Non A/C car and three in an A/C car. They are used to control the speed of the fan, low and medium speeds. The fan is directly connected in high speed.

How did you hook up the alternator output to the battery? Sounds like you directly connected it from the alternator to the (+) terminal. The stock ammeter measures current flow through the charging wire connected between the (+) terminal of the battery and the main power distribution terminal on the horn relay. The stock alternator connects to this point on the horn relay as well. If the alternator output is connected anywhere else you will always measure a discharge condition on the meter it will be most noticable with the lights on or the fan in high speed.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Apr 26th, 04, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hey Mark a friend of mine changed the altenator over for me .He came from the horn relay or voltage reg to the altenator and then to the battery He builds hot rods and this always worked for him he is a Gm mechanic.When i hooked the battery gauge up from the gauge package i went from the gauge to the + on the battery and the other on the altenator.Everthing was putting out 14 volts so that should be alright i would think.But i don,t get a discharge i get a full charge all the way over.With the signal on it just bounces a little with the head lights on it is about 3/4 charge.He said by hooking the gauge direct to the bat &alt is why you get that.He seem to think if you hook it some where else in searies you won,t see the gauge move that much.I had trouble with the resistor in the temp gauge after i replaced it it worked fine.There is one on the battery gauge to i wonder if it could be bad.Thanks for your help I,m going to print your answer and show him Thanks Again Dirks SS
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Apr 26th, 04, 10:40 AM
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Mark
 
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Can't wire it that way and expect the ammeter to work. Of course you only going to get a charge condition, since where you put your two ammeter leads have all the current flowing from the alternator to the battery. Current is also flowing from the alternator into the car via the terminal on the horn relay, but your not measuring that side of the circuit.

See this link:

https://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimat...;f=10;t=001666

You have to run the alternator output to the horn relay terminal and then from there to the battery. The ammeter has to be connected to the (+) terminal of the battery (actually the terminal post infront of the battery) and to the same horn relay on the same terminal as the wire running to the battery. It also has to have the same size wire running between the horn relay and (+) terminal as it originally had or the "calibration" of the guage will be way off.

Read the nausiating discussions on the effect of wire size on of ammeter calibration here:

https://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum...;f=10;t=001615

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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