GEN light with a CS130 - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 04, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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I bought my CS130 alternator today. I've still got some brackets to aquire and other stuff before I make much progress. So I've been reviewing the wiring diagrams and collecting documentation.

I'm a bit confused on the GEN light wiring. I used the document in the tech reference section of this site to figure out how to connect everything. The author writes about there being two types of alternators - resistor and non-resistor. This apparently is with respect to the GEN light. The author explains how the bulb filament provides regulator power and that is a "power feed".

But looking at the schematics, it appears the gen light is acutally tied to accessory power via the ignition switch. The bulb appears to be connected between accessory power and battery power. If the bulb is acting as a resistor, am I gonna fry my new CS130 regulator which has the brown wire connected to accessory power? I am corn-fused.

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 04, 07:04 PM
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i kinda had this same prob. i have the brown gen light wire as my "trigger" wire for the alt and have a diode where it connects to the alt wiring. i was told to do it like this so it wont back feed and fry other stuff. so there is no gen light. hope this helps
Nick

68 camaro, 350, comp cams xe262, hooker super comp headers, torque thrust II's, its a work in progress
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 04, 11:13 AM
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Look back at your wiring diagram, its a little hard to trace but it actually pops out to a brown wire in the driver side wiring harness under the hood, this then crossover either along the firewall or just forward of the headers over to the end and connects to #1 DARK BROWN terminal on the 12SI alternator on my car, what happens is this connection is grounded when the car is running, if the alternator fails (belt broken) then some positive charge will leak thru, back to your idiot light and cause it to turn on! MAD ELECTRICAL has a great kit if you need to renew this wiring. I'm using their wiring kit although you can buy the connector and wiring anyways, I was ordered other stuff like Headlamp relays and power posts so I grabbed the alternator kit while I was at it.
I string my two alternator wires (#1 and #2 terminals) thru heat strink tubing to the driver side of the engine and then it hops across to the inner fender where it connects up to the existing brown wire in the harness.

1969 Camaro - GM 2003 Electron Blue
Beck Racing 383 cu in 465HP Engine - Sean Murphy Inductions Stage 2 Quadrajet
TCI Streetfighter 350 - 3.73:1 Posi 10 Bolt Rear - 12.6 sec qtr mile

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 04, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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I could swear that on the underdash side of the firewall connector the brown wire is doubled up with a brown / white that connects to accessory power. Guess I better make sure. Might need a magnafying glass to read these old faded schematics.

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 24th, 04, 03:57 AM
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dnult I think I came to the same conclusion the first time around trying to trace down that brown wire. I think the problem was the mirror image on the opposite side of the firewall or I was looking at the wrong connection (two connections pass thru that area). Basically its a thin 16-18 gauge brown wire that runs to your voltage regulator near the horn relay! I removed the wrap around the wiring harness and brought the wire back about 2 feet to the middle of the inner fender, soldered in the diode at this point along with new wiring jumping over to the engine and then to the alternator. I heat shrinked these two wires for the alternator in tubing every 8 inches (using 8" heat shrink tubing at radio shack) until it was all protected well, then I hooked in the alternator connector with enough wire slack. I then purchased some bolts that fit into the top bolt holts on the aluminum headers and used some rubber grommet wire loops (piece of sheet metal with a rubber protection) two create a nice channel for this wire to go across.
Another option is to bring it back to the firewall, across the firewall, and then over the intake manifold.

1969 Camaro - GM 2003 Electron Blue
Beck Racing 383 cu in 465HP Engine - Sean Murphy Inductions Stage 2 Quadrajet
TCI Streetfighter 350 - 3.73:1 Posi 10 Bolt Rear - 12.6 sec qtr mile

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 24th, 04, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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I figured it out! [img]graemlins/hurray.gif[/img] Just as I thought! The bulb is connected accross the accessory power circuit and the guage power circuit. So normally the bulb sees 12 volts on both sides and is unlit.

A brown wire from the bulb connects to the firewall connector in position D-3 which passes through to a 20 guage pink wire to the gen light lead on the charging system. But also connected to D-3 on the underdash harness, is a brown-white wire connected to accessory power.

Seems like when the gen light circuit grounds the line to indicate a fault that it would fry the accessory power wire. The secret is that the accessory power wire is a resistance wire with a resistance of about 18 ohms. On my 68 harness the brown / white wire loops down toward the console connector and back up to get adequate length and resistance.

When the generator / alternator grounds the GEN line, instead of frying the accessory power wire it just gets warm to the tune of 800mA worst case. It actually should be much less than that since the bulbs resistance is less than 10 ohms and will carry a majority of the current.

I am not quite sure why the accessory wire is even there, but a have a couple of theories I won't go into.

So a CS-130 is plug and playable in an external regulator system.

[img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

[ 02-24-2004, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: dnult ]

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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