ford solenoid - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 04, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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i was just wondering if i could get instructions of how to wire up the ford solenoid to cure heat soak. i've heard of a couple different ways it could be done, but i would like to know from someone that has done it. did u do it like this? http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

also where a good location to mount the solenoid? can i see pics?

thanks [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 04, 12:39 AM
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Jim
 
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Wiring up the solenoid like that will work just fine but remember that the ford solenoid is grounded through it's mounting bracket. If the bracket is bolted to plastic or a painted surface, the solenoid cannot see a ground and it will not work.
You can make sure it's grounded good a couple of ways. First by removing all of the paint on the metal panel it is mounted to or after the holes are drilled to mount the solenoid remove the paint from around one of the holes on the backside and then use a internal or external star washer under the head of the nut or bolt or lastly make up a short ground jumper wire that will go from one of the mounting bolts to a good clean ground.
For the best reliability on any of the wiring connections, crimp on the terminal to the wire and then solder the connection and then protect them with heat shrink tubing.
On the jumper wire on the starter from the big terminal to the solenoid terminal, try and keep that one as short as possible so it cannot be damaged by heat or become burnt from the headers.
On mine I got a ring terminal that fit the large post and another that fit the small terminal and it required less than one inch of wire to connect them both together. After this part was soldered together for my starter it resembled a jumper bar and no wire insulation is even on it.
If you can, try to use lock washers with nuts and bolts to secure the solenoid to the car and try to steer away from sheet metal screws. The vibrations will loosen the screws faster than the nuts and bolts with lockwashers.

Jim

1974 Spirit Of America Nova (being restored), 1973 Nova Custom, 1968 Chevy II (Garage Find 2012)

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 04, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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thanks SOA-Nova [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

also what year and model ford does the solenoid come from?
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 04, 06:37 AM
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Jim
 
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Not that I want you to view the other side sites but maybe do a search in some ford forums about what works best. I bought some generic ones from Auotzone years ago and tried using them continously instead of intermittently (like they are designed for) and they only lasted a few minutes on a test bench before the coil windings opened up and they quit working. There's probably a heavy duty version out there but I would think maybe the 60's to 70's cars had them.
In my car I have the battery in the rear along with the solenoids but bought the large 200A relays and used them instead and got rid of the blue oval ones. The 200A ones are available from PAC or Aamp Of America and go for around $50.00. If you go with them they wire a little differently than the Ford ones but are made to work for long periods of time without having to let them cool down or cause damage to the coil windings.

About halfway down the page are the large current relays:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/web/prods/fans.asp

Jim

1974 Spirit Of America Nova (being restored), 1973 Nova Custom, 1968 Chevy II (Garage Find 2012)

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