Battery relocation...questions - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 03, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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I am in the middle of a rewire on my 69 convertible and have been thinking of moving the battery to the trunk. If anyone has done this what are the pro's and con's? Where do you ground the battery? How do you route the positive cable?

Please help me make my decision.

Thanks

Bob
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 03, 05:53 PM
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THe conversion is relatively simple. mounting the battery in the trunk puts weight on the rear wheels and cleans up the engine compartment. The frame becomes the ground in the trunk. I used a grommet in a hole drilled in the trunk . ground the battery to the frame. the positive cable can be routed next to the frame rail ... USE WIRE LOOPS AND CLAMPS OFTEN.

post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 03, 06:17 PM
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Considering that the Camaro is a unibody, I'd recommend running a ground wire from the trunk to at least the subframe. A better solution would be to ground to the block. The starter pulls a few hundred amps when cranking. Also, charging system noise and other stray currents can cause interference to other electrical systems if grounded to the unibody. Most all other electrical systems in the car are grounded to the body making it an unwise choise for a battery return path.

-dnult
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 03, 03:35 AM
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I read an article by Guldstrand, I bbelieve,in one of my Camaro books that moving the battery to the trunk was the equivalent of shifting the motor back 10", giving a 1% weight distribution improvement.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 03, 03:36 AM
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Grounding to the body will be fine. Make sure you have good ground straps to the body-frame-body-engine! Or you may have slow cranking.
joe c
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 03, 06:48 AM
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And when your finished, don't carry gas cans around in your trunk!

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LT1 4L60E
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 03, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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Any way to run the hot wire in the door sill channel on the pass. side of car?

Thanks for all of the great advice on grounding.

Bob
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 03, 03:31 AM
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I drawed my positive cable on the passernger side under the mat and doorpanel.

Im not finished yet, but im going to connect the ground in the trunk and then from body to subframe, then subframe to the block and from the block to the other stuff in the front(where the battery was). And i talked to an electric engineer and he said that would work just fine.!?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 03, 09:38 AM
 
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I just finished this project on the weekend. First thing I did was make a sealed battery box from a Rubbermaid container. I couldn't get a sealed one from my local boat place and I'm too cheap to buy a proper one. Painted it semi-gloss black and you'd swear it came from Summit. Anyway, after drilling and groment (sp?) holes for the cables to come out, I mounted a Ford style starter selenoid on the side of the box. I then ran heavy 2 guage welding cable under the car to the starter. This wire is now only hot when the car is cranking. I ran a seperate 4 guage wire back to the selenoid from the charge wire off the alternator to provide a charge circuit for the battery. Lastly I ran the ignition wire back to the Ford seleniod to engage it when I turn the key. These charge and ignition wire run inside the car. Vented the box outside the trunk, and that's about it.

Took me a while to research and figure it all out, but now it looks pretty cool.

Robb

PS - Only thing I haven't done yet is to add a fuse or breaker on that charge line in case some happens to it under the carpet.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 03, 09:40 AM
 
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I forgot, I grounded the battery in the floor of the trunk. Then added groud straps from the subframe to the block and from the subframe to the body. This seems to be working.

Robb
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 03, 08:56 PM
 
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I use a ford solinoid mounted right next to the battery to avoid the heavy live wire and used plastic wire loom to protect the cable a little more. You should consider using a large fuse especially if you run the cable inside the car and don't have a very fast way to disconect it just in case the insulation wears through you don't have to put out a fire.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 03, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Wel I got the kit from Summit and I started on it today. I came across a few problem/questions.

I wanted to mount the battery behind the right rear wheel but the box interfers with the trunk hinges. So I next found that mounting it on the trunk floor next to that area was going to be the best...I guess? Any thoughts? Do I need to mount the battery in the same way as in the engine compartment (East/West) or is a (North/South) position OK?

I did put the (+) cable in some plastic wire loom and snaked it through the rear seat area and down the pass door sill. I was thinking of drilling a hole in the firewall about where the square access area for the pass side, mid subframe mount is an bring the hot wire through there to te starter. Anyone see any problems with that?

Thanks,

Bob
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