power lock actuator problem .... - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 22nd, 02, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Pocono Mts. Pennsylvania
Posts: 33
ok ... i know i remember checking my lock actuators before riveting them into the doors of my second gen camaro. now i am hooking up all the wiring, and they do not work. i have power to the switches and all the way down to the actuator itself when i take the plug off and check with test light.

when i hit the swtich, nothing happens.

how are these grounded?

is it possible that the switch is bad? i tested them with jumper wires before installing them, but never tested them with the factory switch.

any ideas where to start?
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 22nd, 02, 06:24 AM
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Mark
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Shrewsbury, MA, USA
Posts: 6,509
They are not grounded. The switches are double pole double throw switches (6 terminals per switch) that swap power and ground. The ground connection is on one of the center terminals on the switch The actuators should have two wires on them. For the sake of this discussion call one red and one black When you lock the door, power comes from the switch to the actuator thru the red wire. Power passes through the coil and back to the switch through the black wire which is grounded as long as the switch is held in the lock position. When you unlock the door power and ground are swapped and the actuator is energized in the opposite direction. Power comes in the black wire and ground returns to the switch through the red wire.

Draw 2 rows of 3 small circles on a piece of paper. Draw a rectangle below it to represent your lock actuator with a black wire and a red wire coming out of it. Label the center top circle as +12V, label the bottom center circle a Ground. Connect the top left circle with a line to the Red wire on your actuator symbol. Connect the bottom left circle to the black wire on your actuator. Label the space between the center and left circles as "LOCK".

Connect the top right circle to the black wire on your actuator, and the bottom right circle to the red wire on the actuator. Label the space between the center and right circles as "UNLOCK". When you lock your doors you are connecting each of the center circles (terminals) with the circle (terminal) immediately to the left with a pair of contacts. When you go to unlock you are doing the same thing to with the other set of contacts. With the switch in the mid position none of the terminals are connected to any other terminal.

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Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11
My 69 L48 - 350/300HP Engine
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 22nd, 02, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Pocono Mts. Pennsylvania
Posts: 33
good information ...

any ideas on how i can pinpoint the problem? i do not want to spend $70 on 2 used actuators if i do not have to...

trying to keep wasted money to a minimum
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 02, 06:17 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 119
i had the same problem, but in my case however, the kid who owned the car before me was a butcher, he replaced the passenger door and just twisted all the door wiring together , when i removed the right side kicker panel i unveiled the birds nest of wires, i had to solder each wire one by one and that solved my problem.

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1984 Chevy Camaro (305)
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