Temp indication - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 01, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Location: GARDEN GROVE CALIF
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Did a search, could'nt find what I was looking for. Fired up my new 330hp crate motor in my 69 yesterday. Wet well. I have console guages and had to switch water temp sending units because of the vortec heads (smaller hole). I wasnt getting a good temp indication during the break in. I got a sending unit from chevy and I guess I have 2 questions. 1 Could I have an idiot light sending unit (would have thought late model would be a guage) and 2 I rember you guys talking about too much teflon on the threads causing no ground. I'll double check with chevy on the part number of the sending unit to make sure its not for an idiot light. Any anvice would be welcome. Thanks.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 01, 06:11 AM
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Rick
 
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What kind of indication are you getting? Since it's ground dependent, don't use teflon tape. My gauge reads 1/4 of the way. When I put my infrared temp gun on, it reads 180-185. My brother changed sending units on another make and the reading significantly changed. Temp was OK though. Sometimes, you just need to get used to the relative position once you know what the true temp is.

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Rick Dorion
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 01, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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When I turn the key you can see the needle jump to full col real quick and during the break in the needle barely move off full cold. Before the motor and sending unit change it ran in the middle. Also I think I made a mistake I gooped the sending unit up pretty good with teflon on the threads.

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[This message has been edited by HOTROD69CAMARO (edited 07-16-2001).]
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 01, 07:14 AM
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Mark
 
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If the needle moved at all during the run then you must have a temperature sender, not a switch in there. The switch is used with the idiot lights. All the sender is is a variable resistor that is grounded to the engine block. As the temperature increases the resistance of the sender goes down. If the new sender has a different value than your original one it will read differently on the gauge.

You need to find out the resistance of the old one vs. the new one.


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Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 01, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Can I do that with an ohm meter?

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 01, 07:40 AM
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Mark
 
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Sure, throw both of them into a pan of water. Wrap the a wire around the threads of each (2 wires) and leave the other end outside the pan. Connect two other wires to the center terminal of each sender.

Turn on the stove and take readings from each pair of wires as the water temperature increases. By the time you get to 212F you should be able to tell if they are the same or not.


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Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 01, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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what about too much teflon on the threads? I've seen talk of that.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 01, 11:33 AM
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Mark
 
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Sender needs to be grounded to the block in order to work right. If you have too much teflon on there it can keep the sender isoalted from ground and cause it to read improperly or not at all.


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Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11
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