Re: Neutral Safety Switch Failure?
Some more info... The starter is made by Powermaster. I have talked with their tech department on the issue and they state heat soak is not an issue at all with their XS line. In fact, they claim that as far as reliability goes, this is one, model #9540 is one of their best. Also, they do not want insulating wraps/shields used as they tend to not allow heat to dissipate from the starter itself, or they tend to trap reflected heat from adjacent heat producing structures (headers etc). The headers are not super close to the starter. I did replace the run (purple wire) from the bulkhead connector to the starter and this may in fact have fixed the problem. I don’t know because I haven’t driven the car yet. But even so, if it did fix it, I think its going be a “band aid” fix because the voltage still appears marginal at the S terminal. Hence why I am looking elsewhere and was thinking at least the NSS because of the drop across it, and perhaps the ignition switch also because of the marginal voltage to the NSS. Not ever seeing an ignition switch, I don’t know if the wiring runs to it or if the key mechanism moves the copper contacts shown in those pics when the key is turned and the wiring runs to that. Im unclear if thats the case and if is this a replaceable item or something that at best can be cleaned with something like CRC contact cleaner. All those small parts and springs look like they just want to get lost. If I understand Everett’s suggestion for testing, it seems like a great idea; run a lead direct from the battery to the S term with a push button switch in line and measure the voltage drop. This would give an actual expected value.
69’ Camaro convt. Metallic grey, Blueprint Engines roller 383 stroker 445hp/465tq. Edelbrock Air Gap intake. Holley Terminator EFI. Hooker stainless headers. Tremec TKO-600 5 speed, 3.55 posi rear, Vintage Air, March Performance, TMI Interiors