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Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 03, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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After educating me on the external voltage sense wire, I investigated its whereabouts and found it to be cut by previous owners since they converted from EFI to carb on an 88 Monte Carlo SS.

They jumpered from BAT to Terminal. Lights dimmed, and further dimmed with more load turned on, gauges dropped, etc. The schematic showed the remote sense wire going back to ALT fuse @ fuse block and being hot with IGN on. Cut open what was left of the engine harness, there's the brown/white wire, DMM read battery w/key on. Removed jumper, connected it up, and WAAHOOWAA!

Now, it has a higher charging voltage, 14.8, then down to 14.2 as it warms up. No variance in gauges, engine even runs better.

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 03, 02:13 AM
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No problem but that sounds more like the field line. The one that would run back to the idiot light on a non-gage car.
Olds in the 80s ran that line back to the INSTRUMENT fuse. If you had a fuel gage problem, it would pop the fuse and tend to shut down the alternator. Sense line is normally just a jumper to the B+ terminal on the rear. Not fused and doesn't run inside the car.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 03, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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This is a gauge car. Fuse block actually reads ALT. Other wire in two-wire connector is for voltmeter.

I agree with you, but, this works, so either one of two events will happen, it'll either work, or it'll break. I'm not going to try to make the wheel 'more round' until needed.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 03, 03:49 AM
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Sounds like you nailed it. Even a gage car needs an excitation voltage to an alternator.
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